Gardeners Corner Archive

Week 01 - 1st January 2004
Gardeners Corner Notebook for January 2004!

The first Aconite or Snowdrop of the New Year is an exciting discovery. It's hard to imagine any colourful bloom of summer more welcome. Stirrings beneath the ground are evident as the blue-green spears of Narcissus push their way through the softened earth, in preparation for flowering in a month or two.
Jasminum nudiflorum opens its egg-yolk yellow tiny blooms during mild spells, studding naked green branches. This hardy, tolerant climber is often criticized for being common, but there is nothing vulgar about its cheerful yellow blooms against a red brick garden wall.
To keep Winter Jasmine at its best, remove old branches at the base in spring, after flowering, allowing vigorous juvenile stems space to flourish. When trained against a wall Jasminum nudiflorum can reach 4.5 metres, alternatively, if regularly clipped it can be maintained as a shrub. Partner with Mahonia japonica, Elaeagnus pungens 'Maculata' and golden heaths for an uplifting display.
Many of the shrubs that brave the winter weather to bloom now, share the similarity of small flowers, presumably to lessen the chances of winter damage. Witch Hazel, Sarcococca, shrubby Honeysuckles, Mahonia, Wintersweet and Viburnums bear clusters of tiny blooms, with a pervasive perfume that will drift across the garden, leaving you searching for its source. A small vase filled with just a few stems can scent an entire room. Alternatively cut a single branch and arrange in artistic Japanese fashion, from a shallow
bowl or dish. Remember to crush or peel the ends of woody stems to allow water to be absorbed effectively through the thick bark. A fresh covering of snow reveals the tracks and footprints of dozens of birds and animals visiting the garden. Deer may venture closer than usual in search of food, along with rabbits and hares on the lookout for green shoots, visible above the carpet of snow. Hungry blackbirds and thrushes quickly strip berries from Rowan, Pyracantha and Hollies, leaving only a few scattered on the ground for a passing pheasant.

New Years Resolution…
Whenever you buy or are given a plant that is new to you, take the time to look it up in at least two gardening books - there are excellent publications on the market today. This way you will able to give you new "treasure" the best start in life, whilst adding another name to your gardening repertoire.

Week 02 - 8th January 2004
Gardeners Corner Notebook for January 2004!

JOBS FOR THE MONTH: (3 parts)
Part 1: Slowly, the days are beginning to grow longer, which is a positive thought. However, the soil temperature is at an all time low as the combination of short daylight hours and weak sun fails to lift the daytime temperatures much above freezing. On average January is the coldest month of the year, with low temperatures often continuing into February. Periods of prolonged wet weather followed by clear, cold frosty nights spells disaster for tender and borderline hardy plants. Against a brick wall, temperatures can be a degree or two higher than in the open, where the absence of a protective blanket of insulating cloud
can be most felt. Protect precious plants with a layer of Horticultural Fleece, sacking, straw or bracken, held in place by pea sticks, wire and netting. This insulation will need to stay in place until the temperatures rise, but could make all the difference between a plants survival or failure.
The "bare bones" of the garden are clearly visible now, with the strong structure of hedges, paths and lawns apparent. Now is the time to reassess the garden with a critical eye, questioning its balance, fluidity and function. Sketch a plan of changes to implement later in the year.
Create a small "woodland" arrangement using pots of tiny spring flowering bulbs, surrounded by fresh green moss. Add extra colour with primroses, polyanthus and violets. Arrange in an old pudding basin, decorated bowl or lined wicker basket. The arrangement will last well in a cool room, conservatory or glass porch. Use as a novel centrepiece for the dining table, returning to cooler conditions later. New hedges and specimen shrubs planted at the latter end of last year in exposed positions, may benefit from protection against the prevailing wind, to enable them to establish quickly. Erect a temporary wind brake of netting or woven hazel, held secure by stout posts, in an "L" shape around individual specimens facing into the wind, or on one side only of a line of hedging.

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Week 03 - 15th January 2004
Gardeners Corner Notebook for January 2004!

JOBS FOR THE MONTH: (3 parts)
Part 2: Bird tables kept topped up with food scraps and fresh water will be a continual hive of activity in the garden. Remember to replace frozen water each morning with fresh. Spring clean rose beds to start the year afresh. Remove all fallen leaves, weeds and debris from the surface of the soil, before spreading a revitalising mulch of well-rotted manure or homemade garden compost. Allow the weather to do the hard work for you, washing the nutrients into the hungry soil and the freezing temperatures exterminating unwelcome pests. Roses that weren't reduced in size at the end of last season should be tackled now.
Save hard pruning until the warmer weather of early spring, but the shortening of long stems, in addition to the removal of dead and diseased wood, will prevent unnecessary "wind-rock". The blooms of Christmas Roses (Helleborus niger) are at their pristine best this month, but are quickly spoilt by prolonged wet weather. A clear "roof" on stilts placed over the plants will ensure their blooms last the longest. A cloche, frame or sheet of Perspex raised on bricks or stilts will perform the task admirably. Another Hellebore, the Lenten Rose will also benefit from attention this month. Helleborus orientalis flowers from March onwards, in shades of plum, pink, cream or white, often intricately speckled with a deeper shade. The once handsome evergreen foliage now looks worse for wear. To improve the appearance of the entire clump, cut away foliage at the base, to reveal emerging flower buds. Removal of old leaves will also prevent the spread of the Hellebore Leaf Blotch fungus to this years' foliage. A layer of snow over the garden may look beautiful, but if the branches of specimen shrubs, conifers and hedges become weighed down by its considerable frozen weight, gently shake from their boughs. A carpet of snow over hardy, low growing plants will actually "insulate" against the plummeting night time temperatures, so leave in place to melt gradually.
Rockeries and scree gardens will benefit from the removal of fallen leaves, which have collected in crevices and corners amongst the rocks. Delicate alpines will quickly rot when smothered by decaying plant matter.

Week 04 - 22nd January 2004
Gardeners Corner Notebook for January 2004!

JOBS FOR THE MONTH: (3 parts)
Part 3: Remember to keep ponds clear of ice in at least one corner, to allow fish and other aquatic life to breath. Float a rubber ball on the surface or melt the ice with warm water to allow noxious gasses to escape. Never use force to break the ice as the shock waves can severely traumatise fish.
Shallow water features containing submergible pumps may suffer in freezing temperatures. Check with the manufacturer as to their recommended procedure for winter care of the pool and its equipment.
Spur prune apple and pear trees early this month. Spray with a winter tar wash if pests are a problem, to dislodge over wintering pests and their eggs. Complete digging in the vegetable garden as soon as possible to allow frost and rain at the exposed soil, helping to break it down to a fine tilth for early spring sowing.
Draw up a plan of the vegetable garden and list varieties to be grown, to calculate the best crop rotation for the coming season. Brassica crops should follow beans, onions, leeks, shallots, garlic and salads, followed next by root vegetables; potatoes, carrots, beetroot and parsnips.
Houseplants should never be left standing in a saucer of water. Remove and replace with a dry one after watering. Alternatively, place a layer of pebbles in the bottom of the saucer to "lift" the pot an inch or two, allowing space beneath for surplus water to sit, clear of the plants roots. This method also helps to maintain a moist atmosphere around the plant, as the evaporating water raises humidity. A guests' bedroom, empty fireplace or space on top of a dresser can be transformed with a subtle arrangement of dried or silk flowers, capturing the bounty of summer. Arrange into dry florists oasis, wedged into a basket or decorative bowl. Cracked, chipped or marked "finds" from boot sales and antique shops make ideal containers, where a well-placed spray of flowers can disguise their imperfections. If possible, arrange in situ for the correct scale. Alternatively, use seed heads or dried foliage to build the outline of the arrangement, before moving to a more comfortable table for the creative work to begin. Choose flowers of
toning shades, with a contrasting "shot" of colour for drama. To help with flower selection, take a fabric swatch or cushion cover with you to the garden centre, to ensure a good colour match. Budget for "infill" foliage and neutral coloured blooms between your "star" performers to build the display.

Week 05 - 29th January 2004

Q: We are thinking about buying a greenhouse, but are not sure if it makes economic sense.
What do you think?

A: A greenhouse can provide the perfect year-round place from which to enjoy your garden, as well as perform many useful gardening-related tasks. In fact, a greenhouse or cold frame can offer a cost-effective investment for your garden, allowing you to propagate and grow-on plants which you have produced yourself, for furnishing your garden. The pleasure of gardening in the relative warmth and shelter of a greenhouse more than makes up for its modest cost! While you may be familiar with a range of greenhouse styles: cloches and cold frames are less often seen. They act in a similar way to a greenhouse, but on a smaller scale enabling their use in restricted spaces, on the allotment, vegetable garden, alpine bed, patio or even balcony! They are usually easily transportable, allowing employment almost anywhere in the garden, without fuss. The most productive gardens employ all three structures, to cater for plants at
every stage of growth, each performing a distinct function. A heated glasshouse is a luxury few gardeners can enjoy. It is far more versatile than an unheated frame, house or closh and can provide a suitable environment for a wide range of plants, including frost-tender and tropical species. A heated greenhouse relies on some form of heating to maintain the required temperature for your choice of plants. Ensure you select a heater that is powerful enough to meet your plants’ needs efficiently. Also bear in mind
running costs, convenience and installation. Unheated greenhouses are still very useful, extending the growing season for hardy and half-hardy varieties. Cold frames offer similar advantages, plus the versatility of “hardening-off” young plants, before they are planted out. To incorporate the best of both worlds, create a “tent” of bubble insulation within your cold greenhouse, occupying a small area, large enough for over wintering plants and growing seedlings. Heat only this restricted portion, at minimal cost, until the seasonal temperature is high enough to warm the rest of the glasshouse unaided.
To be continued next week....

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Week 06 - 5th February 2004
continued from week 5 - 29th January

Choosing a greenhouse
Before buying a greenhouse consider how it will fit into your garden. A structure that “blends” into your overall garden design will be far more appealing and a long-term investment. Subtle screening can be used in the form of a hedge, trellis or fence, to disguise a utilitarian, functional design from view. Consider too, how it is to be used, to gauge the best size and shape. Larger models can provide a warm place to sit and enjoy a central floral display or permanent planting beds. Smaller, “mini” greenhouses can be lent up against a wall to slot neatly out of the way, providing just a functional growing area. Materials also vary, ranging from the traditional wood (requiring frequent “treatment”, though hardwood options are lower maintenance), plastic-coated steel (strong, but may rust) to light and low-maintenance aluminium. Plastic “polytunnel” options can provide vast growing areas at a very low cost, but their appearance may put many people off and are probably best suited to commercial growers, small holders and farmers.
Optional Extras
Good ventilation is essential for healthy plant growth. Without sufficient airflow, provided by windows, vents, doors and fans, plants will suffer. Plan for ventilation points around the greenhouse to allow fresh air to enter, circulate and escape through a vent on the opposite side. Rigid, strong staging is a must! Ensure it is robust enough for the job as wet compost and plant pots can weigh a considerable amount. By lifting seedling off the floor, you will be able to watch their progress more easily as well as bringing them closer to the light. The space underneath needn’t be wasted - growbags of strawberries, lettuce or pots of
sprouting bulbs, corms and tubers will feel quite at home. Traditional hand watering methods are still the most effective way to water your plants. However, there are ingenious “mist”, “fog” and “trickle” systems available that will take care of routine day-to-day requirements. A water supply close at hand is a real advantage, as is the facility to “warm” the water slightly, for delicate seedlings. A water tank or a
collection of spare watering cans can be filled and left to warm slowly to the ambient temperature, before use.

Week 07 - 12th February 2004

Q: Our new clumps of red and green-stemmed Cornus in the garden have provided eye-catching winter interest. How can we guarantee they’ll be as good next year?

A: In winter, the colourful stems of Dogwoods (Cornus), Willow (Salix) and Bramble (Rubus) can create striking features against the bare winter landscape. Some such as Cornus alba ‘Sibirica’ and Cornus stolonifera have strongly coloured reflective bark, while others, (Rubus cockburnianus and Salix irrorata), are overlaid with an attractive “milky” glaucous bloom. Their immediate impact is increased when planted in large groups or at a reflective waters-edge, where their numbers can appear doubled. When pruned annually, growth is stimulated to increase the production of vigorous, colourful stems for the following
season. With age, bark colours and bloom fades, leaving a disappointing, dowdy result. The answer is to “coppice” stems early each year to ensure a plentiful supply of colourful young growth for a dazzling display next winter. Though it may seem drastic, prune all the stems to within 5-8cm (2-3”) of soil level, before spreading a nutritious mulch of garden compost mixed with balanced compound fertiliser.
Traditionally, coppicing was carried out as routing woodland management, to ensure a plentiful supply of firewood, pea sticks or pliable stems for basket making and fencing. Weaker growing varieties, such as Cornus alba ‘Elegantissima’, may be reduced every other year, alternatively, coppice only 1/3rd of the stems each spring. Late winter or early spring is an ideal time to carry out the drastic coppicing of hardy varieties, before growth starts, but more tender evergreen species should wait until April.
continued next week...

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Week 08 - 19th February 2004
continued from week 5 - 29th January

Eucalyptus gunnii, globulus and pauciflora surprisingly also benefit from an annual prune. When carried out in April, you can be almost guaranteed that damaging winter frosts will not touch new growth. Cut back to within 5-8cm (2-3”) of last year’s growth, to form a sturdy basal framework. Eucalyptus can regenerate from ground level, forming a generous thicket of young stems – ideal for use when flower arranging.
Large shrubs or trees can be trained to form a framework, revealing clear stems, topped by bushy growth. Annual pruning of the top growth is called “pollarding” and is a useful way of controlling the vigour of a tree and the spread of its branches. Limes (Tilia) and Poplar (Populus) can make excellent pollarded specimens, ideal for use along avenues or walkways. Prune in their first and second years to establish a framework of branches, before growth begins in early spring. Rub out superfluous shoots as they form along the
trunk and clear branch work. Ideally restrict the number of new shoots to 4 or 5 in each cluster to develop larger, showy foliage, unimpinged by excessive growth. In subsequent years reduce the top growth annually, back to 2.5-5cm (1-2”), to develop a permanent branch structure. As the process continues, the main stem will thicken and be able to support heavier top growth. If an increase in size is required, leave well-placed extension branches unpruned, to expand the framework further. Remember, when performing any pruning, always use a clean and sharp pair of secateurs, loppers or a pruning saw on larger branches. New growth will only be as good as the surrounding soil can produce. Feed growth with a thick mulch of well-rotted compost, manure or bark - enriched with general fertiliser if necessary. Dry plants will be slow to perform, so water thoroughly, especially during dry spells, to fuel luxurious new shoots.

Week 09 - 26th February 2004

Q: Our new house has only a tiny back garden. Can you suggest small plants for colour and interest?

A: With modern gardens continuing to shrink in size, Alpine and rock plants may be perfectly suited to your small-scale plantings. Alpines have adapted to thrive in a range of challenging conditions, from niches on high rock faces to closely cropped pasture and loose scree. Some varieties have adapted to very specific conditions, which may prove a challenge for the enthusiastic gardener to mimic, however many are amenable and undemanding and will relish almost any well-prepared site, rewarding efforts with
attractive flowers in an exquisite array of colours. Part of their indisputable charm lies in their willingness to cover themselves with flowers, disproportionate to their size, whilst the simple beauty of their individual blooms share fine details with many wild flowers. Due to their hardy constitutions, many true alpines often flower early in the year, while the weather is still cool and moist – ideal for bringing colour to the garden at the end of winter. Correctly speaking, alpines are plants that grow “above the tree line” at high altitudes on mountainsides. However, the term “Alpine” is often used loosely to include a wider range of small, low-growing and bulbous plants that look happy growing together at lower levels. The one nemesis of all true alpines is persistent waterlogging of their roots. In their native habitats, alpines and rock plants survive on thin, gritty, shallow soils, with low levels ofnutrients. Most will develop extensive root systems to survive, seeking out moisture and food where they can. With this understood, plant alpines in soil that has had liberal quantities of grit or sand previously added, to “open” its structure.
continued next week....

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Week 10 - 4th March 2004
continued from week 9 - 26th February....

Traditionally a purpose built rock garden was the conventional way of displaying a collection of alpines. A slope of soil, preferably south facing, interspersed with rocks and large boulders, mimicking a rugged mountainside is an impressive way of housing your collection, if well constructed. However the familiar “dogs grave” mound of soil, dotted with random stones is less of a garden feature. We now realise that alpines have many uses around the garden, in raised beds, on top of retaining walls, in narrow borders,
gravel gardens, path edges, stone sinks, or even window boxes and patio bowls. Their low-growing, usually neat, compact habit allows a wide variety to be accommodated in a relatively small area, achieveing a convincing display. Alpines also work well against many “modern” landscaping materials. Stainless steal, aluminium, railway sleepers, slate, terratso and glass can show off to perfection the dramatic form, eye-catching colour or fascinating texture of many familiar plants. Try Sempervivum’s, Sedum’s and Sisyrinchium
against metal, Saxifraga and Helianthemum with stone, or Lithodora, Lewisia and Campanula against glass. Mauve, spring flowering Aubretia, yellow Alyssum and white Iberis all make excellent edging plants for pathways or drives. Whilst spreading Dianthus will trail beautifully from the top of a retaining wall or window box, bringing its delicious clove-scent, closer to the nose! In the smallest space, it is possible to create a complete miniature alpine landscape in a stone trough or sink. Traditional stone sinks are scarce and expensive to buy, but there are some convincing “replicas” on the market, at a fraction of the cost. Over time they too will weather, taking on a lichen-covered, aged appearance. Choose a container with
at least one drainage hole in its base, to allow excess water to escape. Add a 2” layer of coarse gravel, stone chippings or broken terracotta pieces to the bottom, before filling with good quality soil-based potting compost, with added grit. A piece of “tufa” rock or broken stone will add interest and “lift” to the flat surface, as well as providing a slope for smaller alpines to tumble down. Set out an assortment of varieties, perhaps including a slow-growing “miniature” conifer, such as Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’ or shrub Helichrysum coralloides to give height and scale to your planting. Finish with a few spring
flowering bulbs and a mulch of crushed rock or horticultural grit, to set off the plants.

Week 11 - 11th March 2004

Q: I would like to try growing bedding plants from seed this year, but don't have a green house. Are there any easy varieties I could start with ?

A: There is an exciting new product on the market available from a major seed company, in the form of "coated seeds" - designed especially for outdoor sowing, directly into the earth. The seeds have been treated with a "Biostimulent" to form a "coat" to make them easier to handle and faster to grow. A limited range of "coated" varieties are on the market this year, including some well-loved favourites.

To create an informal, cottage garden effect sow overlapping drifts of tall blue Cornflowers with pink and purple Larkspur, sweetly scented Stock with feathery Love-in-a-mist and dwarf Godetia in shades of carmine and pink, to front the border.

To begin, clear an area of soil in a sunny corner of the garden, digging over the earth and removing all weeds (both annual and perennial). Incorporate a little garden compost or potting compost and rake to form a fine "tilth" of crumbly soil. If you dig in advance of sowing, a rash of weed seedlings may appear. These can then be hoed-off to leave a clean seed bed for your new seeds.

Scatter the coated seeds thinly, roughly 4cm (1 1/2in) apart and cover with their own depth of soil. Water gently, with a fine rose, to settle the soil and trigger germination. Remember to water again if the soil surface becomes dry.

Next week... Top Tips when growing Bedding Plants from Seed!

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Week 12 - 18th March 2004

TOP TIPS: When growing Bedding Plants from Seed

· Water your seedbed regularly to keep the surface evenly moist. A dry "crust" will prevent the seed from germinating, and cause erratic growth.

· Pull out weed seedlings as soon as they appear. They can usually be identified by their quicker growth rate and familiar foliage. If in doubt, sow seeds directly into straight rows or drills. Anything that appears outside of these can be safely pulled up.

Q: My garden looks untidy and a sorry for itself after winter. I am dying to tackle it, but don't know where to start - can you offer any suggestions ?

The work involved in preparing the garden for summer may seem daunting, but is best divided into manageable "tasks" before you begin.

(1) Start by mowing the lawn. A tidy lawn will set off the whole garden - and you will be able to get a much better cut, before it is trampled on.
(2) Get the pruning out of the way. Remove all old stems from herbaceous perennials and annuals. Cut back hard shrubs such as Buddleja and Lavatera that flower on this year's growth.
(3) Carefully dig out, persistent perennial weeds (such as Nettles, Couch Grass and Ground Elder), taking care to remove all traces of root, to prevent them re-growing.
(4) Gently fork over the soil surface, braking up compacted soil and vastly improving its appearance. Apply a granular fertiliser as you go to give plant growth a boost.
(5) Take all compostable garden prunings and rubbish to the "Green Waste Skips" provided by your local Household Waste Site. For details of your nearest site and opening times ring: 08457 425000 or look on
their waste aware website: www.wasteaware.org.uk
(6) TAKE IT EASY ! - Most of us are not used to such strenuous physical work, so pace yourself and avoid pulled muscles.

Week 13 - 25th March 2004

Q: I only have a small terrace garden but still would like to grow some of my own fruit and vegetables. Are there any varieties I could try in containers ?

A: Well done for wanting to grow your own veg ! - Home gown food, picked from the garden has flavour and freshness unsurpassed by shop-bought produce. Surprisingly, there are many varieties that will
crop satisfactorily from a container, providing you can lavish the necessary care on them. Of course yields will be less than from the open ground, but worthwhile never the less.

To create a mini kitchen garden in pots and grow bags, stick to fast growing salad crops, such as lettuce and rocket, fruiting crops like tomatoes, peppers and aubergines, or attractive climbing beans and
new potatoes. Culinary herbs, such as parsley, chives and coriander, can be used as in-fillers amongst vegetables, or in hanging baskets of their own.

In the heat of summer, be prepared to water pots twice daily and feed a couple of times a week, to compensate for their restricted roots and lack of soil.

Choose "cherry" tomatoes such as Gardeners Delight and Sweet 100 or trailing varieties like 'Tumbler', suitable for hanging baskets, all with exceptional flavour for their small size. Plant 3 to a growbag or individually into 12" pots. Likewise, peppers and aubergines will thrive in a sheltered,
sunny corner. Grow from seed in early spring or by young plants in May. Sprinkle a mixture of 'Lollo Rossa' Lettuce seed with Rocket, Parsley and 'Little Gem' onto the surface of a growbag or trough. Start cropping when plants are 7-15cm (3-6") high, cutting off individual leaves to create a salad. Cut-and-come-again varieties will re-sprout from the remaining stem. When plants become tired and unproductive, remove and re-sow a fresh crop.

Imagine baby new potatoes, fresh from your own garden ! Plant no more than 2 seed potato tubers to a 12" pot or 5 to a half barrel. Set them 10cm deep and earth-up (top-up with compost) as they grow.

More next week, including Wacky Containers!

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Week 14 - 1st April 2004 .....Continued from Week 13 - 25th March

For a wacky container, try recycled wine crates (available from off-licences), with wide drainage holes drilled in the bottom. They make ideal troughs for veg crops, and look attractive grouped together on a
terrace.

French and Runner Beans look at home clambering up a wigwam of bamboo canes or hazel obelisk. Sow 2 seeds per cane and keep well watered to encourage flowers to "set". Pick while still young and tender.

Believe it or not, an apple tree is not out of the question on a patio. "Ballerina" varieties form fruit directly on their upright stem, with the absence of spreading side branches. Alternatively, choose a variety on
a very dwarfing rootstock. (Remember a pollinating partner). Plant into a generous wooden half barrel, filled with soil based potting compost.

Make the best use of limited space by employing window boxes on every available windowsill. Just lean out of the window to pick fresh herbs for cooking or Chilli Peppers for the B.B.Q. !

And don't forget a Strawberry Pot ! Purpose-made terracotta or glazed earthenware pots are readily available and look attractive on any sunny patio. Plant with young strawberry plants, full of vigour, for a bumper crop.

Week 15 - 8th April 2004

Q: We are thinking of adding a water feature to our garden. Can you suggest a few options for choosing one?

A: A pool of still water can add an air of tranquillity and relaxation to any garden. Large ponds need space to work well and are best planned as part of the overall garden design. Formal pools require a crisp; clean edging of stone, brick or slab, with restrained planting, to work well within areas of hard landscaping. Small, self-contained water features sit comfortably on small patio terraces or in a corner of the garden and are ideal as a decorative afterthought. Burbling fountains, trickling streams and playful features, draw the eye and sooth the senses, as well as bringing “life” to the garden!

Siting a water feature:
Playing water within a suntrap will “cool” the atmosphere on a hot day. However, be aware that water evaporates more quickly in high temperatures, or hot and windy conditions, needing frequent top-ups - so keep the hose handy! The cool shade of overhanging trees will create a shady “grotto” in summertime, but falling autumn leaves may clog the filter and pollute water - be vigilant and remove debris before it becomes a problem! An active water feature will require an electrical supply. Ask a qualified electrician to provide an external socket in a convenient position to power your feature. An initial fill of water from a hosepipe, followed by occasional top-ups should be all that is required to keep your feature functioning perfectly. Listen carefully to the sounds made by different features to find one that suits your requirements. Wood, metal, stone, ceramic, glass and plastic all provide subtly different tones, soothing to some “ears” and invigorating to others!
How a simple water feature works:
Water features are designed to be self-contained, requiring topping up as the circulating water becomes evaporated over time. Pumps, filters and lights will require an electrical supply. The style of nozzle, attached to the pump, will determine the fountain spray pattern and may therefore require a more powerful pump to operate successfully. (Check with your supplier for full technical information).
Continues next week....

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Week 16 - 15th April 2004
Continued from Week 15 - 8th April....

Water Plants:
Bog, marginal and deep-water aquatic plants thrive around water. Growth is triggered as the water temperature rises and days lengthen. From April onwards is the ideal time to split, divide and introduce new aquatic planting to the garden. Choose plants carefully to suit the size and scale of your pond. Deep-water aquatics, such as water lilies (Nymphaea) and Aponogeton detest moving or splashing water against their leaves – always site them at the “still” end of the pool for them to flourish. In a town garden, a tantalising trickle of water can be smerising…within a limited space, use water vertically to create a waterfall effect. Alternatively bubble it though a millstone or over a pre-drilled boulder safely above a mesh grill, for a more child-friendly option. In a spacious country garden, water should always be used on a larger scale, in context with the gardens’ surroundings, to make an effective bold statement. Treat plantings simply, sticking to just a few species, planted en-mass as would be seen in nature. Bog Gardens: Creating a bog garden is an economic way of tackling a difficult, waterlogged area of the garden, without battling with nature to drain it. A simple layer of pond liner beneath enriched soil will retain sufficient moisture to enable “bog plants” to thrive. Though bog-garden and moisture-loving plants may be slow to start in to growth in spring – mainly due to the cold water temperature – they more than make up for it with luxuriant growth in mid to late summer, when the rest of the garden can be struggling with soaring temperatures and dry soil. The reward of fresh, new growth late in the season more than compensates for the initial effort required to create a bog garden.
Wildlife and Water:
A water feature increases the diversity of wildlife attracted to the garden. Frogs, newts and toads are all useful garden predators. Other wildlife such as birds, bats and hedgehogs will be drawn to a source of fresh water, so make sure you provide a safe drinking point, with gently sloping edges, dotted with flat stones for amphibians.
Safety First…
Small children should always be supervised close to water. A rigid metal grid, placed above the water surface, strong enough to support a layer of cobbles and additional standing weight, may provide the safest solution around a young family.

Week 17 - 22nd April 2004

Q: When should I think about planting up my patio containers? My local garden centre is full of colourful bedding plants, but is it too early to start?

A: With summer just around the corner, now is the ideal time to begin planting your pots, tubs and containers for a sensational summer display.

For the best patio garden, begin planting as early as possible, giving hanging baskets, wall planters and window boxes time to establish before fixing in their final positions. It is crucial to protect all tender summer bedding plants from frost and with just a fortnight left before the danger should be past, it is simply a job of moving containers into a sheltered position for the night or covering well with
horticultural fleece.

Colour-coordinate your planting with your garden theme, for added impact. A stylish, harmonious display will lift your garden and home above the average. Choose colours to compliment your garden furniture, paving or planting for a chic look.

Lush planting, spilling over the sides of containers, erupting into a fountain of foliage and flowers will certainly create an arresting display. By looking after your pots well the show will be sure to last all summer long!

Colour Combinations to try:-

Lime green and purple Blue and silver
Pink and plum Red and purple/blue
Orange and apricot White and mauve
Plum and cream Shades of green
to be continued next week....

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Week 18 - 29th April 2004
continued from last week (22nd April)

Top Tips
Water plants thoroughly before planting and gently again afterwards, using a fine “rose” hose or watering can attachment. A refreshing spray of water will help to settle compost around delicate young roots as well as gently washing the foliage clean – However, avoid wetting foliage and flowers in bright sunlight as the water droplets can magnify the suns rays, causing tender foliage to “scorch”.

Plant up large pots in situ, to avoid back breaking lifting later on. Alternatively, take advantage of nifty “plant trolleys” now widely available, to provide a sturdy wheeled platform for your pots to sit on all summer.

Save on compost in very large containers by part filling the pot with polystyrene chunks or empty plastic pots. Ensure the drainage holes remain clear, before topping off with a quality potting compost. The improved drainage will encourage the compost to dry out quicker, so be vigilant for watering.

Don’t over-firm potting compost. Simply lightly fill the container and tap the pot on the ground (weight permitting) a couple of times to settle the compost. Firm gently around the plants with your fingertips, to arrange them into position. Water to finish. An open, free-draining medium is perfect for healthy root growth. Over-compacted compost will lack “air spaces”, remaining spongy, waterlogged and airless once wet.

Mix water-retaining gel into your hanging basket compost before planting up your baskets. The labour-saving formulated granules will swell and hold a reservoir of moisture for thirsty plants during hot, summer days.

Feed all your summer pots with a liquid fertiliser at least twice a week, for a continual knock out display.

Deadhead regularly. By removing spent blooms you will be channelling the plants energies into producing more flowers as well as maintaining overall health, vigour and appearance, especially during wet weather.

Mulch the compost surface with coloured gravel, decorative glass chippings or pebbles. Not only will this look attractive, but it will also help to retain moisture in the compost.

Larger pots dry out less quickly than smaller ones. Be generous with the pot size – space for plants to stretch out their roots will mean less competition for moisture, therefore less regular watering!

If you are going away on holiday, ask a gardening friend or neighbour to water your pots in your absence – offer to return the favour. If containers are allowed to dry out completely, they will be a sorry sight on your return.

Week 19 - 6th May 2004

Now that summer has well and truly come, (almost!), it really is time to get on with the garden. Try following our simple tips to get your gardening blooming.

Let's look at bedding....
Be careful when planting soft bedding out at this time of the year. Easier said than done, when garden centres and nurseries are full of colour and more colour, but some of the bedding is particularly soft.
French Marigolds will turn totally black if it gets even a small amount of cold. Always have horticultural fleece handy to protect your plants. This can be held off the plants by putting canes in and clipping to the canes with clothes pegs, a very easy thing to do and protects the plants.

Preparation....
Preparation of the beds before planting the bedding is very important. Add a good amount of compost, digging well in, then add granules of slow release fertilizer, this will feed those annuals all summer long.
Baskets and containers are available to buy already planted, or you can think about planting your own.
Why not use some structural planting to the centre of the container, perhaps a cordyline, a fatsia or even a phormium or small olive tree, to give you a little bit of umph to the middle. Then plant all round it lots of different coloured annuals like trailing geranium, diasica and lobelias that run down and over the edges of the containers. Baskets will start to appear in flower at this time of the year as well. There are some great designs of baskets around, a lot made out of wicker baskets and some from woven reed that look particularly attractive. Again plant up at this time of the year, but protect if you get a warning or a night frost.

To be continued...
Next week; Pests, Vegetables, Lawn and Cuttings....

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Week 20 - 13th May 2004

Pests....
At the moment pests are everywhere, aphids, slugs and snails, so don't forget prevention is better than cure. Look out for Lily Beetle as your lilies start to grow and flower. Lily Beetle is a red shaped shield like beetle, which as soon as you go near it will disappear into the ground. Use something like 'Pest Free' to get rid of it, it really is a disastrous pests. For slugs and snails there are pellets which a lot of people don't like using, however they are very safe if used sparingly. Beer traps and copper bands around containers as well as granules that suck up all the juices from the snail and slug can also be used instead of pellets.
Vegetables....
Tomatoes can be planted now in a cold greenhouse. I like to buy a grow bag and cut it in half and standing it on end, this gives you lovely deep bag a bit like a ring culture pot and this way it will grow much better than putting three in a grow bag. If you've got a soil border in your greenhouse why not put a plank all round it and make it a deep bed with good compost and sterilized top soil and this will be an even better area to grow tomatoes. You can even plant a few salad crops around the tomatoes to give you early salads!
The Lawn....
The lawn will be growing really well now with that warm soil and drop of rain, why not give it a good feed at this time of the year, but remember that regular cutting is also very important. Once the lawn is well into growth you can concentrate on getting rid of weeds. Use a liquid lawn weed killer to eradicate them and this should help to clean up those weeds through the summer.
Cuttings
When you are planting out some of your annuals it is a good opportunity to take a few early cuttings.
You can nip out the tops of your geraniums which will help to make the geranium branch, and gives the opportunity of increasing your stock of geraniums.
You could do that with your fuchsias and herbs as it is a great time to be propogating.
'Gell 2 Root' is a great new way of taking cuttings and an ideal way for children to watch those roots grow as the weeks go by. It's a gell in what looks like a yogurt pot. Just stand it on the windowsill. This is a great time for houseplants to be potted on as they have now got the spring and into summer to grow well.
The light levels are up, but watch for pests and diseases, and if the weather is warm just pop them outside for some of that lovely rain that we have been getting.

Don't forget the most important thing of all... enjoy your garden.

Week 21 - 20th May 2004

Q: We have a lovely garden and would like to use it in the evenings for entertaining family and friends. Can you suggest any “easy-to-install” garden lighting to illuminate our parties ?

A: Outdoor lighting can be used to spectacular effect, transforming your garden into an inviting wonderland. With careful placing, lighting can illuminate a gardens best features and cast curious shadows onto others, while eyesores can be banished into darkness. Safety and security are two other important factors improved by lighting. Highlight the edges of steps and paths with permanent “down-lighters”,
and install movement sensitive floodlights to backdoors and gateways, to welcome any visitor.There are three types of permanent lighting available as well as “temporary” lighting in the form of flares, lanterns,
candles and oil lamps, that can be quickly dotted around the garden before a party. MAINS POWERED, LOW-VOLTAGE and SOLAR are all forms of permanent lighting. MAINS POWERED lights must be installed by a qualified electrician, as they need to be connected to the existing lighting circuit of the house or garage. Alternatively, they can be run off their own separate fused circuit outside. All cables must be buried a safe distance underground and protected within armoured conduit, to prevent any risk of damage from gardening tools.
LOW-VOLTAGE lighting systems can be installed by anyone and are safe and easy to use. A transformer “steps-down” the mains electricity supply from the house, to a very low voltage, before it runs outside, into the garden. This guarantees that there is no risk of an electrical shock, even if you accidentally cut through the cable. The flexibility of this system allows different areas of the garden to be illuminated as the
seasons change, as the cables don’t require burying, or the entire system can be removed, should you move house.
Continues next week.....

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Week 22 - 27th May 2004

.......Continued from Week 24 - 20th May
SOLAR POWER uses an alternative source of energy to provide independent lighting. However, it relies on capturing sufficient energy from the sun and storing it in a battery for later use. Output is limited and only sufficient to light small areas. Fantastic effects can be achieved by using the correct lighting “technique”. Concealed ‘ up-lighters’ at the base of a specimen tree, will reveal contorted branches that go unseen during the day, or dotted through a bed of swaying grasses, will cast the most fascinating shadow play on nearby walls and buildings. ‘Moonlighting’ a patio or seating area from above will create an ideal centre for entertaining. Suspend spotlights from tree branches overhead, allowing dappled light to fall through the leaf
canopy onto the ground below. ‘Spotlighting’ will direct the eye to specific features or architectural plants within the garden. Light, from one side only in the case of an urn, or ‘cross-light’ from both sides, to remove unwanted shadowing on the face of a statue. ‘Grazing’ light across the surface of a dry stone wall or decorative brickwork will pick out small detail and accentuate shadows. ‘Underwater’ lighting can give a mystical feel to a garden pond or pick out feature planting. If the water is moving, use ‘cross-lighting’ in the form of spotlights to illuminate cascading water droplets, or underwater spotlights at the base of a foaming fountain. Have fun with your lighting and experiment with different angles and coloured bulbs before burying the cable, to fix your display. Until now, the various types of garden “flares” on the market have been temporary and often flimsy. However, there are now available a wide range of different sizes, shapes and designs - all taking lamp oil that will burn throughout the evening. Most are on long lasting hard wood poles that can be pushed into the ground, at any location in the garden. The decorative oil
reservoirs are made of stainless steel, copper or oxidised metal and come complete with matching flame extinguishers to snuff out the light. Wall-mounted and free-standing designs are also available to complement your display. (Fill with Citronella oil to repel troublesome insects from your B.B.Q.’s !). Garden flares are not just for summer - they can also give a wonderful welcome to your guests at Christmas !
For special occasions, hang glass lanterns, lit by tea-lights or lantern oil, from sturdy tree branches or shepherd’s crook style hangers. On still evenings, dot small tea-lights along the edge of a path or patio, to create a magical, starry effect. In breezy weather, use storm lanterns instead. Highlight the entrance to the garden or B.B.Q. area with flaming torches to give a “Medieval” feel to your entertaining.
REMEMBER: Take care with all naked flame lights if children or animals are present, and of course, keep away from all combustible materials.

Week 23 - 2nd June 2004

Q: I have been given some wonderfully colourful herbaceous perennials as a present. Where should I plant them in the garden?

A: To many of us, a traditional herbaceous border at the height of summer is the epitome of gardening perfection. Graduated planting proportionate to height, with colours flowing subtly one to another along its entire length, takes masterly planting. But equally, perennials can be mixed effectively with shrubs, bulbs and fashionable grasses, to stunning ends. Herbaceous perennials are technically ‘non-woody plants’, living for at least two seasons (making them more permanent than biennials or annuls), usually dying back to ground level over winter. A few exceptions (Heuchera, Bergenia, Ophiopogon etc.) are truly evergreen – remaining fully clothed all year round. There are perennials to flower from early spring (Helleborus niger, Euphorbia, Pulmonaria), well into autumn (Japanese Anemone, Aster, Rudbeckia), with the main crescendo reached in mid summer. There are also perennials for almost every conceivable growing condition;
moist / wet soil (Lysimachia, Rheum, Ligularia), arid / dry soil (Sedum, Salvia, Stachys), full sun (Hemerocallis, Delphinium, Kniphofia) or deep shade (Lamium, Epimedium, Tellima).
Today, gardeners are discovering that perennials will also grow well in containers, adding a further dimension to the patio garden. Probably more than any other ‘group’ of plants, perennials can offer a truly
diverse range of colour, leaf shape and form, contrasting superbly with their own kind (hence the popularity of the traditional ‘Long Herbaceous Border’, as well as complimenting permanent ‘woody’ planting.
To be continued next week....

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Week 24 - 9th June 2004

Continued from Week 23 - 2nd June....
A walk through a well-stocked perennial department in any garden centre will reveal a considerable choice of growth size and habit, to suit almost every planting position and garden size, from the diminutive creeping Waldsteinia ternata to the towering Cynara cardunculus. If your garden is small, don’t just restrict yourself to small plants – add serious drama with the odd ‘statement plant’ positioned at the front of the border, to provide scale and structure to the rest of your planting. Perfect candidates include Verbascum, Foeniculum, Melianthus, Crambe and Angelica, providing considerable height in a matter of just a few weeks, before dying back to ground level over winter. Some perennials also have the bonus of scent, either from their flowers or foliage. Lilies, Dianthus, Phlox and Violas can have highly perfumed blooms, but make sure you are buying truly scented varieties, as not all share this ability. For aromatic foliage, sniff out Aloysia triphylla, Nepeta, Lavandula and Houttuynia, for planting where their perfume can be enjoyed most.
Perennials lend themselves perfectly to many styles of planting, from traditional ‘cottage garden’ to ‘formal’, ‘island bed’, ‘mixed borders’, ‘colour-themed gardens’, ‘seasonal interest’, ‘woodland gardens’ as well as ‘specimen planting’. As with all plants, ensure sure you make the right choice for your growing
conditions and aspect. Perennials can be long-lived when well sited, providing a worthwhile investment for the garden. However, when incorrectly placed, they may fade away after a season or two, giving disappointing results. As with all gardening, understanding your garden, its soil and microclimate is the key to successful and long-lasting planting.

Week 25 - 16th June 2004

Q: We temporarily have space available in a new flowerbed for a few months until autumn arrives, when we will fill it permanently with shrubs. In the mean time, can you suggest a few ‘quick-growing’ vegetables that we could plant to make full use of the space until then?

A: Vegetables that spend many months in the ground, such as Brussels sprouts and main crop potatoes are probably best left to the vegetable garden, where their long-term residence is not a problem. However, there are a number of ‘quick crops’ and ‘cut-and-come-again’ salads and herbs that are certainly worth growing in the short term. If space is limited, it is sensible to utilise space saving techniques, were possible, to maximise productivity.

Before vegetable gardens became places of long, regimented rows with broad pathways and bare soil, vegetables were grown closely together in small compact beds, a ‘man’s stretch’ wide – around 150cm (5ft). Sensibly, this allowed for easy maintenance, weeding, watering and cropping, comfortably within reach, from both sides. When plants are grown closely together so their out-stretched foliage touches, they act together as an effective weed-suppressant, shading the soil beneath, retaining moisture and stifling weeds. Bear in mind that spacing determines the size of vegetable produced at maturity.
For example, onions sown closely together will remain small, ideal for salads and pickling, while if allowed 5-7cm (2-2 ½”) of space between plants, they will grow into larger cooking onions. As the crop grows, utilise the ‘thinnings’ in salads and cooking, providing space for the remainder. Some varieties actually benefit from being grown closely together. Celery will self-blanch, sweet corn is ‘wind pollinated’, therefore when grown in a block will produce a fuller crop. Meanwhile, peas and dwarf growing beans – broad and
French, will cling to each other for ‘support’. For quick salads, sow lettuce, endive, radish, cress, mustard, chicory, rocket, kale, turnips (for their leafy tops), Chinese cabbage, Japanese Mustard and Florence
fennel and begin cutting when just a few inches high, while the leaves are at their most nutritious. When provided with fertile, moisture retentive soil, they will respond by producing new leaves 2,3 or 4 times, providing further croppings. Select your varieties carefully. Non-hearting, ‘leaf’ or ‘salad bowl’ varieties respond the best, producing surprising yields over a small area. After a mere 40-60 days from sowing, your first fully grown salad leaves should be ready to cut, leaving healthy plants to re-sprout again.....
to be Continued Week 29 - 23rd June

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Week 26 - 23rd June 2004

Continued from Week 25 - 16th June
If the weather turns cold, place a cloche over the crop, or continue sowing ‘indoors’, under the protection of a cold greenhouse, for continued harvests. Some of the most space-efficient vegetables you can grow are the ‘climbers’ – runner and French beans (both green, purple and yellow podded varieties), sugar peas, marrows and squashes occupy mere inches of floor space, but will scramble many feet into the air, over any available support, providing a colourful and productive screen. When trained up string, canes, trellis, wire, hurdles, wigwams or obelisks, their pleasing visual qualities will become a focal point in the garden.
Spice-up your salads with easy to grow, colourful herbs. The bright orange or yellow petals of pot marigold (Calendula) sprinkled over a fresh green salad will add a hot, peppery taste. For a different texture, use the chocolate-bronze feathery leaves of bronze fennel, grey-green serrated foliage of salad burnet,
sweet ferny leaves of chervil, yellow flower shoots of Japanese mustard and the garlic-flavoured leaves of Chinese chives. Add to these sprouting seeds: adzuki, mung beans and lentils for a nutritious meal.
Salads needn’t be just green – there are a whole host of edible flowers that are both colourful and delicious to eat. Try violets, pansies, cowslips or primroses, Anchusa, borage, Calendula, Nasturtiums and the double form of our native lawn daisy, Bellis perennis. Add whole flowers and petals to your salads at the last minute, after it has been tossed in oil and vinegar. Pull off individual petals for a delicate effect
(especially for daisies). The bright orange petals of pot marigolds (Calendula, NOT African or French marigolds) were loved by Romans (who realised the health-giving properties of raw vegetables and introduced the first mixed salads to our shores), can carefully be dried under a gently heat, before storing in airtight jars, for use over winter. As when growing all vegetables, the effort invested in initially improving the soil will pay dividends when it comes to harvesting. The same can be said of watering. If rainfall is low, irrigate regularly and thoroughly, to avoid a check in growth.

Week 27- 30th June 2004

Q: With the heat of summer and dry weather upon us, how can I improve the look of my garden AND maintain its soil moisture?

A: Mulching is the answer!
A thick layer of organic or inorganic material covering the soil surface will not only reduce the effects of moisture evaporation but also look great too!

Mulches can take the form of ‘Organics’ – peat, compost, bark, cocoa shell, straw, grass cuttings or paper, which will rot down over time. ‘Inorganics’ – such as polythene, polypropylene, glass chippings, gravel or slate remain inert, staying in place until dug into the soil or removed. An organic layer over time will also contribute valuable nutrients to the soil; provide humus and slowly improve soil structure. Newly planted wall-shrubs, climbers, trees and shrubs particularly benefit from having a 5-7cm (2-3”) layer of mulch spread over their root area, to a radius of 60cm (2ft), to provide a cool root run, retain moisture and discourage the germination of competitive weeds. Herbaceous perennials, bulbs and alpines also benefit from the addition of a mulch or ‘top-dressing’ of some kind, improving growing conditions and the
appearance of the planting. Small, delicate alpines respond well to a protective ‘collar’ of fine grit or gravel
around their crowns to prevent mud splash on fragile foliage and sharpen drainage at the roots. Horticultural grit is pH neutral, suiting most alpines, alternately a decorative layer of coloured glass chippings could be added to compliment foliage, flower colour or container. The appearance of a freshly tidied flower border can be enhanced dramatically by the application of a dark mulch of composted bark chips, peat or cocoa shell. If persistent weeds are a particular problem in your garden, spread a permanent
‘weed suppressant membrane’ across the soil surface before planting, to prevent troublesome weeds emerging.
To be Continued next week....

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Week 28 - 7th July 2004
....Continued from week 27

When used correctly, a mulch or top dressing will help to regulate soil temperature, keeping plant roots cool in summer and warm in winter. To be effective, an organic mulch should be long-lasting and not easily dislodged by wind, rain or birds. Preferably, the layer should be around 10-15cm (4-6”) deep to work effectively, but vary this according to plant size and stature. Annual weed growth will be suppressed, as light is usually required for germination and growth - when this is excluded, germination rates are drastically reduced. Ensure your chosen mulch is ‘clean’; free from unwanted weed seeds and perennial roots. Proprietary ‘bagged’ products are usually heat-treated to ensure sterility, but homemade compost may
contain a few weed seeds – though the hot, composting process usually puts pay to most.
Inorganic ‘plastic sheet’ mulches are especially useful in the vegetable garden as they can raise the soil temperature early in the season, allowing earlier sowings of many vegetable crops. The disadvantage of a sheet mulch is that almost no water can evaporate from the soil and, likewise, rain cannot penetrate it - making it vitally important not to place a sheet over waterlogged or dry soil. Woven or spun ‘horticultural’ membranes avoid this problem. They are made from a man-made material that will not rot, but are woven like fabric, allowing rainwater to reach the soil below and excess moisture to evaporate to a degree. Ideally, spread a membrane across a newly prepared bed BEFORE planting, as it is almost impossible to lay around existing plants. Cut ‘X’ shaped slits in the fabric and peel back to expose the soil beneath. Plant as usual before covering with loose bark chips, cocoa shell, stones, slate or gravel for an extremely low-maintenance and attractive finish. In exposed areas it may be wise to ‘peg’ down the sheeting first, to prevent wind getting underneath and lifting the membrane, before it has been secured. Trees, fruit bushes and larger specimen shrubs benefit from the removal of competitive grasses over their entire root area, extending to the outer parameter of the leaf canopy, before a thick 15cm+ (6”+) mulch of rotted manure is spread, avoiding contact with plant stems and trunks. Replenish this annually to fuel vigorous growth and retain soil moisture. Even well established plantings can suffer during prolonged periods of summer drought. Help your garden cope by first watering thoroughly, drenching the soil to a deep level, then spreading a thick mulch over the soil surface. In addition, a mulch will prevent ‘panning’ or flattening of the soil surface, when the autumn rains do finally arrive.

Week 29 - 14th July 2004

Q: We would like to add a few more climbers to our garden, over trellis and against the house wall. Can you suggest varieties that are also scented?

A: While the appeal of some climbers lies mainly with their gorgeous flower display, those that are also highly perfumed give the garden yet another dimension. The colour and form of some blooms may be showy, but without a delicious fragrance, their appeal can be fleeting. Scented flowers are often more subtle in appearance and many release their fragrance at certain times of the day, such as Jasminum officinale, which exudes its intoxicating perfume most powerfully on warm summer evenings, making it ideal for growing over an arbour or pergola, close to a patio. Traditional Cottage Garden favourites such as Sweet Peas (Lathyrus odoratus), Honeysuckle (Lonicera) and Roses are always welcome. Plant close to a doorway or frequently open window, to allow the perfume to waft into the house. For a long-lasting display, combine two or three varieties that flower at different times, to extend the season of interest. A well constructed, study timber arch or wirework frame will have no trouble in supporting the weight of several climbers, intertwined. Try highly fragrant climbing Rose ‘Zephirine Drouhin’ with Honeysuckle Lonicera periclymenum ‘Belgica’ and cream variegated Jasmine Jasminum officinale ‘Argenteovariegatum’, for a perfumed cherry pink and cream display. Exciting new introduction, Lonicera periclymenum ‘Scentsation’ is particularly highly fragrant, with lemon and butter-yellow Honeysuckle flowers from May onwards, repeating throughout the summer. Team up with bronze yellow climbing Rose ‘Maigold’, or creamy rambler ‘Alberic Barbier’ for a sensational display. Scented climbers can also be used cleverly to enliven shrubs that have finished flowering. The piercing blue flowers of Ceanothus are delightful early in the summer, but come July or August, the blushes often look dowdy. Plant Jasminum officinale ‘Aureum’ or recent hybrid ‘Fiona Sunrise’, with golden suffused foliage that contrasts spectacularly with the blue flowers of Ceanothus, plus the added bonus of heavenly perfumed white flowers in throughout summer.
To be Continued next week....

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Week 30 - 21st July 2004
....Continued from week 29

Fragrant flowers in the spring are always highly prized, so it is a surprise that the unusual “White Forsythia”, Abeliophyllum distichum is not more widely planted. Position against a sunny wall to encourage prolific flowering and provide trellis support for lax-growing stems. Pure white Forsythia-like flowers appear as early as late winter and will continue well into spring, studded against bare branches. The variety ‘Roseum’ is a delicate pink flowered form. The hansom, evergreen Clematis armandii opens its creamy-white 5 petaled flowers from the end of March onwards, when given the protection of a sheltered aspect. New introduction ‘Enham Star’ is particularly heavily fragrant and very free flowering. The peachy-pink flushed buds of ‘Apple Blossom’ open white, clearly resembling blossom of spring fruit trees. All varieties of “Armandii” require shelter and protection to flourish and flower really well. Plant against a warm south or west-facing wall or fence, to protect the leathery evergreen leaves from the desiccating effects of cold winter winds. In contrast, a Clematis to cope with every aspect and position is “Montana”. Reliable and hardy, this vigorous, prolific climber will quickly scramble over a shed, garage or medium sized tree, providing a cloak of sweet, vanilla scented blooms in April and May. ‘Alexander’ is creamy white; ‘Elizabeth’ and ‘Pink Perfection’ are both light pink, while ‘Tetrarose’ is mauve-flushed against deep bronze foliage. The most fragrant of all hardy climbers must surely be white summer Jasmine -Jasminum officinale. Once again, plant against a warm, sunny wall or fence for maximum flower production. Pruning is not necessary, in fact excessive leafy growth may be encouraged by over zealous trimming – leave well alone, only removing dead or straggly growth after flowering. Jasminum polyanthum is less hardy, requiring winter protection. Treat as a houseplant or conservator climber, where just a couple of pink-budded, white flowers can flood the house with perfume.

Week 31 - 28th July 2004

Q: My garden looks great in the daytime, but when I invite friends over for the evening, it all too quickly it disappears into darkness. How can I use my garden more effectively?

A: Entertaining family and friends in the garden can be a memorable way of spending a warm summers evening. However, weather aside, the one BIG drawback at this time of year can be the fast fading
light – even though the evening may be warm and inviting. At the flick of a switch your entertainments can be illuminated with attractive low-voltage lighting. When cleverly positioned, outdoor lighting will bring a whole new dimension to your garden. It may seem a cliché, but your familiar ‘back yard’ can be literally transformed with an imaginatively designed lighting display, turning it into a welcoming ‘exterior room’. Spotlighting feature plants, statues, pots, pools and pergolas, while relegating unsightly, neglected areas to darkness, can easily create stunning effects. Lighting also makes your garden more accessible to visitors, increasing home security and personal safety. Standard, mains voltage lighting systems should always be installed by a qualified electrician, but are practical for permanent security and large areas, where floodlighting is required. For the average driveway, garden path or patio, low-cost, low voltage lighting is an easy to install option. A complete DIY novice should have no trouble in installing a simple low-voltage lighting circuit safely. Deck mounts and soil spikes allow the display to be ‘tweaked’ or moved as the need arises, maintaining full flexibility. Uplighting, downlighting and spotlighting are the three most basic forms of garden lighting. By using a combination of all three, a dynamic effect can be easily created.
To be Continued next week....

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Week 32 - 28th July 2004
....Continued from week 31

Use one or two uplighters beneath elegant grasses, feature plants or shrubs to ‘wash’ a white light up through the foliage and highlight stems. Downlighters, in the form of postlights or markers will illuminate a pathway, drive or deck safely, allowing easy foot passage. Space at regular intervals for an unbroken path of light. Spotlight garden feature, such as statues, birdbaths, urns and obelisks, with two lights each, grazing the beam across the surface to minimise deep shadow. Maintain some areas of complete darkness in select corners of the garden to act in dramatic contrast to illuminated areas – brightly lit features will appear more dazzling when set against pitch black. Don’t forget ‘task’ areas, where food preparation and cooking will take place. Directional spotlights set beneath a parasol will illuminate work and eating
areas safely. Plan your lighting display in advance – count up the different types of lights required and calculate the total wattage needed – buy the correct transformer and cabling for an impressive display. (Long distances will require a thicker cable to reduce voltage drop.) Allow for ‘flexibility’ – play around with your display, discovering new and unusual ways of illuminating your garden. An ‘ordinary’ green tree or large shrub can appear magical once lit from beneath by two or more spotlights, directed into its branches. Coloured bulbs can add a dramatic theatrical atmosphere to the simplest display. Red, green and blue bulbs are readily available – simply replace the existing clear bulb supplied with the feature light, using the colour of your choice. Use timers to turn your display ON and OFF as required. A programmable timer is also a security asset during holiday times when the house may be empty. Bury low voltage cabling beneath a gravel or bark mulch for a neat finish. Remember to plan your lighting display to accommodate the changing seasons – stunning autumn foliage and bare winter stems can look spectacular when visible at night. Similarly, a mid-winter snowfall can be fully appreciated when subtly illuminated by sparkling white lights.

Week 33 - 4th August 2004

Q: Our local garden centre is filling up with bulbs, ready to flower next season. Can you suggest how I can “pep up” my borders in spring and summer, with something a bit different?

A: As a keen gardener, I am sure it hasn’t escaped your notice that Alliums are the latest “must have” garden plants. For weeks, from late spring through summer they send up many, varied “drumstick” heads consisting of hundreds of individual flowers.

Their rise to fame is partly due to the excellent photography seen in the illustrated gardening publications of today. As a bonus, Alliums main flowering season happily coincides with Chelsea and Hampton Court Flower Shows, further publicising their excellent garden-worthy attributes. Alliums are predominantly bulbous plants, with a few rhizomous exceptions. We are all familiar with onions, chives, shallots, garlic and leeks – the vegetable branch of the family – with adventurous gardeners also planting their “Ornamental” cousins, for flower power, without the smell. However, when crushed, the strap-like foliage, often reminiscent of grass, can exude a faintly oniony aroma, which is by no means off-putting, making it easily distinguishable from other plants when weeding. What you may not know is that most Alliums also make excellent cut flowers (if you can bear to spoil your garden display), lasting well in water. Their globular heads can create a sensation in striking floral arrangements, combined with bold foliage and contrasting colours. Now is the perfect time to venture to the garden centre and stock up on these exceptional plants, as the latest deliveries are pouring in.
To be Continued next week - Top 10 Rundown....

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Week 34 - 11th August 2004
....Contnued from last week

Top 10 rundown…
A look through this list reveals the large number of varieties sporting a coveted Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, denoting garden-worthy excellence, a testament to the exceptional attributes of ornamental Alliums. Allium ‘Globemaster’ – Probably the largest Allium, with violet-pink ball-shaped heads, up to an astonishing 10” diameter. Height 85cm / 30”. AGM

Allium cristophii – Huge spherical heads of metallic mauve “stars”, which remain attractive long after they have faded. Eye-catching and easy to grow. Height 60cm / 20”. AGM

Allium schubertii – Making an excellent cut flower, startling heads of shooting stars on individual stems of varying lengths. Also good dried and sprayed gold, as novel Christmas decorations. Height 40cm / 14”.

Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Stunning when planted en-mass amongst purple leaved sage, grasses or beneath golden laburnum trees. Subtly different mauve to purple toned “drumsticks” rise above surrounding planting. Height 80cm / 32”. AGM

Allium sphaerocephalom – Egg-shaped heads of deep maroon to green buds held aloft on wiry, flexible stems. Bulbs are cheap, so plant in large drifts for a convincing display. Once again, stunning in floral work. Height 60cm / 24”.

Allium siculum (correctly re-named Nectaroscordum siculum) – Umbels of maroon-flushed alabaster bells, upturned once fertilised. A prolific grower and self-seeder once happily planted. Unique colour combination, perfectly marrying with ornamental grasses and drought-tolerant Sedum. Height 90cm / 3’.

Allium azureum – Deep sky blue “balls”, beautiful when grown through silvery Catmint, lemon yellow Helianthemum or Potentilla. A dainty variety, ideal for cutting. Height 60cm / 24”. AGM

Allium flavum – Canary yellow loose umbels of tiny hanging flowers, upturned when fertilised and seed is ripening. A very decorative, easy to grow and useful garden plant. Height 30cm / 12”. AGM

Allium karataviense – Unusually for an onion, this one is grown more for its foliage than its dense, greyish white flower heads. Broad, glaucous, puckered leaves cup opening blooms. Very much a “designer plant”, stunning when well used. Height 20cm / 8”. AGMAllium moly ‘Jeannine’ – Cheery, bright yellow starry flowers top rigid stems. Wonderful combined with late spring bedding; For-get-me-nots, Violas, Wallflowers or Campanula. Height 30cm / 12”.

In addition to this list are many “rarer” varieties, not so commonly seen, but well worth searching out. Place direct orders or contact specialist nurseries for extensive bulb listings.

Week 35 - 18th August 2004

Q: Last year I bought packets of good quality bulbs for my garden, but the display this spring was rather disappointing – lacking impact. What’s the secret for getting the ‘most’ from bulbs in my garden?

A: Though it may seem ‘early’ to be thinking about planning colour for next season, spring flowering bulbs are in our shops now. By combining spring bulbs with companion planting, you can double, if not treble their seasonal impact.

Most bulbs on their own are charming, sending up hardy blooms that will brave the worst of the weather. However, this display on its own can appear ‘lost’ unless set against a suitable backdrop of healthy foliage, complimentary flowers or colourful stems. By planning ‘themed’ synchronised displays around the garden, it is easy to maximise on valuable spring colour. Just as when furnishing your home, have a colour scheme in mind when out shopping for bulbs. ‘Dots’ of isolated colour can create a confusing, random effect – overall lacking ‘oomph’. However, by combining subtly toning or boldly contrasting foliage and flower colour together, it is possible to build up an attractive garden ‘picture’. ‘Planting Partners’. In small areas it is wise to underplant with just one or two companions, building the scale as the area to be filled increases. The Tyrian rose flowers of Chionodoxa ‘Pink Giant’ looks perfect set against ground hugging bronze Ajuga (Bugle), followed by lavender-blue flower spikes. Try dwarf Narcissus ‘Minnow’ amongst soft blue forget-me-nots (Myosotis) or mauve Crocus, through the metallic ‘silver’ foliage of Lamium galeobdolon ‘Hermann’s Pride’. On a larger scale, tulips particularly benefit from a ‘supporting cast’ of friends, helping to integrate them into surrounding garden. Not only will background foliage frame their shapely blooms, but also help to support their tall stems, before finally disguising fading bulb foliage at the end of the season.
To be Continued next week....

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25th August 2004
....Continued from 18th August

Wallflowers have long been favoured traditional companions, with very good reason. Their branching stems create support while fragrant, velvety flowers open for many weeks. Additional ‘tall’ partners could include Euphorbia’s; E. dulcis, E. palustris, E. pithyusa or E. polychroma, or the brightly coloured exciting shoots of E. griffithii ‘Dixter’ or ‘Fireglow’. Lemon yellow, cream, orange or red tulips look wonderful against this primary leafy backdrop, while bluey-pink, purple, lavender or pure white look divine against the marbled ‘thistle’ leaves of Silybum marianum, silver Artemisia, Stachys, Onopordum, white Pulmonaria ‘Sissinghurst White’ and pale blue forget-me-nots. Try cherry-pink May flowering tulips with blood red wallflowers, edged by Heuchera ‘Chocolate Ruffles’, ‘Plum Pudding’ or similar for a mouth-watering display. ‘Safety in Numbers’
As a rule of thumb – ‘Buy twice the number of bulbs you think you need!’ – bold, sinuous drifts work the best, happily linking surrounding planting. Avoid predictable ‘rows’ or ‘grids’ at all costs, in favour of relaxed, ‘natural’ groupings. If necessary, scatter handfuls of bulbs across the border and plant where they fall, for a truly informal drift. ‘Scale’. Combine low-growing bulbs with small companions, scaling up to bulky 2ft+ perennials and shrubs with tall-growing late-flowering Tulips, Narcissi or Iris. When planting, pay special attention to the final ‘flowering height’ of each variety, allowing blooms to open clear of surrounding foliage. Planting suggestions: - Add sparkle to a sunny border with royal purple violas, dotted with rich yellow Allium moly, Dutch crocus and dwarf Narcissi, for a long season of interest. A background of evergreen Euonymus fortunei ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’, spreading blue Campanula and ‘Bowles Golden Grass’, Milium effusum ‘Aureum’ would simply add to the effect. Edge silver planting with white Dutch crocus, through a soft carpet of Lamb’s Ears, Stachys byzantina. Add soft, pale pink Tulip ‘Angelique’ to taller ‘Peer Gynt’ and lily-flowered ‘White Triumphator’ for height. Dramatic ‘Black’ tulips (‘’Black Parrot’, ‘Black Swan’, ‘Paul Scherer’ or ‘Queen of Night’) deserve an appropriate backdrop. Accentuate their colouring with purple-leaved sage, bronze fennel and cut-leaved Cardoon, Cynara cardunculus. Finally add, Aquilegia ‘William Guiness’, with darkest maroon and white ‘bonnets’ to dramatise a dark theme. For sweet spring scent close to a doorway, combine perfumed hyacinths with matching pink Chaenomeles speciosa, (Quince) and dainty double daisy, Bellis perennis.

1st September 2004

Q: Any ideas for jobs in the garden for late summer?

A: With the end of summer approaching, catch up on garden maintenance, before winter sets in.

Structures and hard surfaces around our gardens act as a “framework” through which plants grow. If carefully maintained, these assets that were so expensive and time consuming to install, will give years of pleasure to come. The dry days of summer is an ideal time to paint, scrub, repair and restore our favourite garden features. New fences, if made from quality tanalised and erected with care, should weather gradually over the seasons. If you wish to “preserve” the factory-impregnated colour, or add your own stain, paint while completely dry with wood preservative. This will not only extend the life of the timber, (by preventing surface moulds
and rot), but will also help the fence blend-in with existing garden features. Various wood preservatives are on the market, either water- or solvent-based, requiring re-coating every 2 to 4 years for maximum protection. Water based products are generally less toxic to plants - important if your fences are covered with climbing plants – and are more pleasant to use. They are also available in the widest range of shades, to harmonise or contrast with surroundings.
Fence Maintenance. A broken fence post is the most common problem troubling fencing, often occurring at ground level. Repairs carried out now can prevent the loss of entire panels during strong winter gales. The most effective method of repair is to use a “spur” post of concrete or wood, sunk into the ground alongside the existing fence post. Dig a hole adjacent to the post and place the spur in the hole. Pack hardcore and cement around to hold it secure. Bolt the spur to the post and support with a sloping batten, until the cement has had time to harden.
Oil gate hinges, shed doors and padlocks before winter wet has the chance to penetrate. Ensure locks, bolts and catches are secure. Check the shed roof for signs of wear. Holes, tares or deterioration in roof felt could allow moisture to enter the shed and unseen damage to begin. Guttering is easy to install, and though not a standard feature, can help to extend the life of the timber cladding, as well as diverting excess water away from the base of the shed.
To be continued next week....

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8th September 2004
....Continued from last week - Week 37 - 1st September 2004

Timber decking, which has become so popular in recent years, needs regular maintenance to preserve its appearance. Inspect for splits and cracks and replace damaged timber before it becomes a hazard. The darkening associated with fungal growth will appear at some point, usually after a period of prolonged wet weather. Remove with a stiff brush and fungicide or a mild dilution of bleach. Paths, steps and patios. As with decking, hard surfaces can become slippery
during wet weather. Keep clean with regular sweeping, as accumulated litter with provide a medium in which weeds can grow. Routinely use a weed killer designed for use on paths and patios, to discourage re-colonisation. You may like to consider installing low voltage lighting along the edge of a path or steps, frequently used in the garden. As the days draw in and darkness falls, you may be glad you did. With the onset of wet weather, avoid using grass paths as frequently to preserve the appearance of the turf. Make “duck boards” from slatted timber, to cushion the load, if winter access is essential. Inspect boundary walls (and fences) to check for overhanging limbs of shrubs or trees, resting on the wall. Over time, the pressure can be considerable, causing a crack to appear. Repairs can be costly, requiring the attention of an
experienced bricklayer to put right. Empty and scrub clean patio containers and flowerpots of summer bedding plants. Use hot water and a stiff brush to avoid inadvertently transmitting pests and diseases onto new season plants.

12th September 2004

Q: My hanging baskets have looked beautiful all summer, but are now past their best. What should I do with them and can you suggest what I could plant for colour during the winter?

A: With fresh stocks of Winter Flowering Pansies filling the plant areas’ of garden centres’ now, this is an ideal time to plant up patio tubs and hanging baskets for lasting winter colour. Empty out tired summer bedding plants onto the compost heap or into the Green Waste Composting Bin, provided by the Council. Spread the old potting compost on your flower beds or use when
planting new trees and shrubs, as it is an excellent soil conditioner. Why not try some of the new bi-coloured Pansy shades on the market, along with small-flowered violas for exciting combinations? Young evergreen shrubs, herbs and ornamental grasses also make excellent additions to the winter display. Small plants of Skimmia, Leucothoe, Lonicera nitida, Euonymus, Photinia, Ilex (Holly) and Hedera (Ivy) will provide year-round colour in containers and
can be planted in the garden once they have outgrown their allotted space. Woody evergreen herbs, such as Rosemary, Thyme, Sage and Lavender are all reasonably hardy and can make valuable additions to hanging baskets. Once again, the plants can be re-used in the herb garden next summer. Search out evergreen ornamental grasses to combine with colourful winter
bedding plants, for an unusual display. The “Black Grass”, Ophiopogon planiscapus ‘Nigrescens’ combines beautifully with mauve and purple-blue winter pansies, or orange violas. The evergreen sedge, Carex morrowii ‘Evergold’, with its cream and green-banded foliage or milk chocolate-brown Carex conmans both look stunning when combined with the autumnal shades of orange and red pansies, or contrasting against blue violas. Experiment with different combinations to compliment the exterior or your house or match the colour of your front door?
To be Continued next week....

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16th September 2004
....Continued from 12th September 2004

Tough, winter-flowering Heathers are also an excellent choice. Available in white, pink and ruby-red, the hybrids of Erica carnea are the most reliable. Team up with low-growing conifers and hardy Cyclamen for an attractive arrangement in a bowl. In mild, sheltered areas, the choice is even wider. Cyclamen, Capsicum and dwarf Chrysanthemums all provide fantastic autumn colour, until caught by a sharp frost. Add to these Ornamental Cabbage, Kale and Chard, for rich,
jewel-like colours. Don’t neglect bulbs when planting your containers. A packet or two of dwarf
or low-growing varieties added to each hanging basket and patio tub will surprise you in the spring and help boost colour. Crocus, Chionodoxa and miniature Narcissus are well suited to exposed hanging baskets, while dwarf and species Tulips, Hyacinth and Iris look delightful filling more sheltered patio containers. Before planting, wash clean all containers and baskets of the remnants of summer bedding. Using a stiff brush, remove lime scale, moss and lichen. Add a deep
layer of crocks or pebbles to the bottom of the container to ensure good drainage over the winter. Half fill with fresh multi-purpose compost before adding the bulbs. Press gently into the surface and cover with more compost. Finally arrange the planting – trailing plants at the edges, bushy specimens towards the middle. Use Pansies and Violas as “fillers” around the evergreens to give instant colour. Finish by watering well, using a “rose” or fine sprinkler, to settle the compost.
Hanging baskets should not be hung up immediately, instead allow 2 to 3 weeks for them to become established, at ground level, before hanging in the turbulence of wind and rain.
Remember to dead-head Pansies, Violas and Cyclamen regularly to encourage a continuing show. During extreme cold weather, winter flowering pansies and violas will cease flowering, recommencing once conditions improve and temperatures rise.

Week 38 - 23rd September 2004

Inspiration from Chelsea...

Q: Inspired by a visit to the Chelsea Flower Show this year, with its marvellous bulb displays, I would like to try growing Tulips in my own garden, for a display next spring. Are they easy to grow ?

A: These slender, elegant flowers are surprisingly easy, as long as their basic needs are met. Good drainage, especially during summer, is of paramount importance. Dig generous amounts of grit into heavy soils, to improve matters permanently. Alternatively, plant into decorative tubs on the patio, or cheap plastic pots plunged into flower beds, for an instant display (remove after
flowering to allow bulbs to ripen and foliage to die away, in a sunny position out of sight).
You are not the first to appreciate the qualities that Tulips have to offer. They have had their admirers for centuries. "Tulipmania", as it was known in Holland (1634-1637), saw individual Tulip bulbs command extortionate prices. Collectors squandered fortunes on the most perfectly marked specimens, while the rich planted them en masse, to impress. Today bulbs are realistically priced, available from as little as 10p per bulb, while new varieties are still snapped as soon as they are available.
The bulbs we grow today fall into one of two categories:
(a) Species - relations of wild varieties that can be seen growing in Central Asia, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Crete and the Balkans. They are generally small flowered, dainty plants with hardy constitutions.
(b) Hybrids - Fuller flowered, big, "blousy" blooms available in a kaleidoscope of colours. Variations in petal "design" never cease to amaze.
Types to try include:
Parrot Tulips have ruffled and twisted petals, supposedly resembling a parrot's plumage ! They generally flower towards the end of spring. These are spectacular blooms in your own right, even more so if "flamed" with another shade. Try 'Flaming Parrot', 'Estella Rijnveld' or 'Blue Parrot'.
Lily flowered Tulips are a complete contrast. Tall, slender, waisted flowers give elegance and sophistication to your bedding displays. 'White Triumphator' is still a winner, holding its own over more recent introductions. 'Maytime' is another beauty with deep cerise blooms. Stems are strong and blooms long-lasting - no wonder they are still turning heads 50 years after their introduction ! Viridiflora Tulips sell on sight. A broad green stripe or "flame" is seen running
through the middle of the petals, making their blooms unique. 'Spring Green' is a favourite with flower arrangers, for its pure white petals, flushed green. 'Greenland' is rose pink, flamed green.
Darwin's have the "traditional" Tulip shape; tall stems and large flowers. Blooms open from mid to late spring. Try 'Apeldoornt' for its gorgeous deep red flowers - an old favourite. Double Early's resemble Peony flowers - up to 4" across and very desirable. Choose a sheltered site, as the large, heavy blooms are liable to topple in an exposed position. Within the Species group, kaufmanniana are ideal for small pots or tiny gardens. Blessed with attractive netted and mottled foliage, these varieties always earn their keep. Try 'Johann Strauss', with blooms that open flat in the sun, like a Water lily, in cream and cherry red. Plant all Tulips in fertile, freely draining
soil, in a sunny position. Tall varieties appreciate some shelter to protect their weighty blooms, while smaller growing "species" will cope admirably with windier aspects. All varieties dislike waterlogged conditions.

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Week 39 - 1st October 2004

Q. I am new to Ornamental Grasses and have planted several colourful varieties in the garden. Do I need to cut them back for winter? And how should I care for them for the rest of the year?

A. Some trends in gardening seem to come and go with the weather, but Ornamental Grasses are definitely here to stay. This is largely due to their wide range of leaf colours, textures and habits, plus their ease of cultivation. Nothing could be simpler. All hardy varieties, and that’s the vast majority of plants offered for sale in the garden centre, require no special winter care or
protection. Ornamental Grasses can be divided into two categories (a) evergreen and (b) deciduous.

(a) Evergreen types retain their leaf colour throughout the year. They do in fact shed a proportion of old foliage annually year in spring and summer, which is triggered by the emergence of the new seasons growth. Simply run your fingers gently through the foliage, from base to tip, to loosen and remove dead leaves and accumulated leaf litter. Included in this group is the beautiful Fescue, Festuca glauca ‘Elija Blue’ and the milk chocolate coloured Sedge Carex
buchananii.

(b) Deciduous varieties grow actively all summer, when their foliage is at its brightest. By autumn growth ceases, but the stems remain. Gradually over winter they become ‘bleached’ to the colour of straw, but remain very attractive. These “dried” stems can be left on the plants and enjoyed. They are surprisingly strong, flexing dramatically in the wind. The tall flower heads of varieties such as Miscanthus sinensis and Pennisetum are particularly beautiful when covered in early morning frost or illuminated by low winter sunlight. In early spring cut away the remains of last year’s foliage and stems to allow fresh young growth to emerge unimpeded.

Week 40 - 8th October 2004
Continued from last week....

All grasses appreciate open, airy conditions, so watch for neighbouring plants encroaching on their space, potentially spoiling their shape. Apply a small handful of general-purpose fertiliser in spring if growth seems slow.Please Note: some varieties, notably the familiar Pampas Grass, Cortaderia, have serrated edges to their leaves. Always wear tough gardening gloves when
handling these plants to avoid unnecessary injury to hands and arms.

TOP TIPS:

Colourful grasses combine brilliantly with late summer flowering perennials. Plant ribbon-like drifts of 5, 7, 9 or more grasses amongst Asters, Echinacea, Japanese Anemones, Helenium and Rudbeckia, to create a ‘Prairie’ effect.

Surprisingly, many Ornamental Grasses make excellent hanging basket plants. This is a particularly good way of showing off the cascading foliage of pendulous varieties such as Carex conmans and Carex petriei. Surround them with winter flowering pansies, violas, ivy and heather in a 14” or 16” basket for a superb winter display.

Tall grasses make imposing specimen plants in pots. Choose a colourful glazed container, at least 45cm (18”) diameter, with suitable drainage holes. “Crock” the bottom and fill with John Innes no.3 potting compost. Plant the unusual “Zebra Grass”, Miscanthus sinensis ‘Zebrinus’ with its golden banded foliage or giant Arundo donax var. versicolor for a touch of the tropics on your patio!

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Week 41 - 15th October 2004

Q. We have a family celebration shortly and thought of giving a plant as a gift. Would a rose bush be suitable and could it be grown permanently in a pot?

A. Roses can make ideal gifts for special occasions, particularly as many are blessed with memorable names! The likes of ‘Golden Anniversary’, ‘Ruby Wedding’, ‘Happy Birthday’ or ‘Special Occasion’, would all make unforgettable presents. In fact, if you look closely, there are roses named for almost EVERY occasion!

Roses in Containers:
Despite popular belief, roses can be grown in containers successfully, providing their basic requirements are met. Roses are deep-rooted plants, often driving roots to a depth of 3ft or more in open ground. Satisfy their need for a cool, moist root-run by choosing containers at least 35cm (14”) deep for Miniature and Patio varieties, 40-60cm 16-24” for larger growing H.T’s, Floribundas and Shrub roses. Select a container with a similarly generous neck diameter to provide a safe and stable growing environment.

A loam-based potting compost is a must for sustainable, healthy growth. Choose John Innes No. 3 or a mix of 60/40-quality loam to peat (or peat substitute). Once established, feed each spring and again after the main ‘flush’ in mid-summer, with a balanced slow release fertiliser, such as Top Rose or Vitax. Between times feed with a soluble foliar feed, to maintain healthy foliage and vigorous growth. Water liberally, possibly daily in the summer as weather and growth rates dictate.

After two or three years growth may need to be rejuvenated by a complete change of compost, or better still, plant your rose into the garden – this is best done during their natural dormant season – October to March.

A wide range of Roses are available bare-root between October and the end of March, for immediate planting. Alternatively, containerised or container grown bushes are generally available throughout the year, for planting at any time.

TOP TIP:
For extra colour ‘out of season’, surround roses in containers with colourful winter bedding. Pansies, Violas, Wallflowers, ‘Silver Leaf’, Heathers and Ivy will all help to dress-up a pot for a special occassion.
To be continued next week....

Week 42 - 22nd October 2004
Continued from last week....

A rose named just for you?
To buy a quality rose named solely for YOU is extremely expensive. Years of intensive breeding, growing, nurturing and selecting go into the production of each and every new variety. It may be possible to commission a rose grower to do this for you…alternatively, search for a rose sharing YOUR Christian name! Many names are hidden within a full and more complicated variety name,
such as ‘Alister Stella Gray’ for ALISTER or STELLA. Others are more simple – ‘Our Terry’ for TERRY, or ‘Little Amy’ for AMY. Ask at your local garden centre, or buy a useful copy of ‘Find That Rose!’ – The Guide to Who Grows What, for comprehensive answers. (Available from Angela Pawsey of ‘Cants of Colchester’ Roses, 303 Mile End Road, Colchester, Essex, CO4 5EA. Tel: 01206 844 008.) Price £3.50 including postage and packing.

The following is only a small selection of the wide range of roses available:-

Birthdays
Happy Birthday, Many Happy Returns, Birthday Wishes, Birthday Girl or Birthday Boy.

Weddings
Wedding Day, Marry Me, The Bride, Love Token, Our Love and Honeymoon, plus many others.

Anniversaries
Happy Anniversary, Special Anniversary, including a whole host suitable for silver, pearl, ruby, gold, diamond and platinum celebrations.

Bereavement
Loving Memory, Eternal Flame, Remembrance, Rest in Peace, Sweet Memories and Tear Drop.

…Even your favourite tipple!
Bucks Fizz, Champagne, Cocktail, Johnnie Walker, Typhoo Tea or Whisky Mac.

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Week 43 - 29th October 2004

Q.We are hoping to put our house on the market soon and would appreciate tips to help us improve our gardens appearance?

A. Often, a visitor’s first impression of your home will be via the front garden. We are told time and time again by home-improvement shows and magazines of the importance of presenting our homes in their best possible light, to welcome visitors (or achieve a sale). A smart front garden and freshly painted exterior can set the tone for the entire visit, as well as welcoming you warmly home each evening.

By employing a few ‘tricks of the trade’, it’s simple to add that all-important “wow” factor, even in gloomy autumn and winter.

Small gardens can quickly be covered in low-maintenance gravel or slabs, for a tough, all-weather surface. Remove fiddly areas of grass unless you are a real enthusiast, prepared to mow, feed and scarify regularly. Keep paving cleanly swept and gravel raked for a smart appearance.

Edge loose surfaces – shingle, bark, or stone – with an attractive and practical edging, to prevent ’migration’ indoors. Wooden ‘Mini-sleepers’, terracotta rope tiles or curbstones make practical retainers.

Use planted containers to add colour and interest to your scheme. Treat them as an investment as they can easily be moved with you, when the time comes.

To be continued next week... (Creating Impact!)



Week 44 - 5th November 2004
Continued from last week.... 'Creating Impact'

Create impact with ‘focal’ planting. A pair of neatly clipped topiary specimens positioned either side of the front door will add an air of grandeur to the simplest façade. Choose containers in keeping with the scale – large wooden Versailles planters, heavy glazed terracotta, lead or stone urns will all add the desired effect.

Choose planting that requires minimal maintenance, leaving you free to tackle other jobs. Hardy evergreens, grasses, ferns and bulbs can be easily ‘layered’ to provide several seasons of interest. Colourful winter bedding – Pansies, Violas, Ivies, Heathers and Ornamental Cabbages – will add instant colour to window boxes and hanging baskets. Buy ready-planted containers for immediate effect or create your own, perhaps matching the colour of your front door.

A defining hedge of colourful evergreen shrubs will mark your garden from your neighbours. Try variegated Holly, Euonymus, Aucuba, Elaeagnus, Laurel, Photinia, Viburnum or Box for a distinct boundary. Young plants in 1L, 2L or 3 litre pots needn’t be expensive and will require minimal maintenance over the winter.

Grey winter days can create a sombre effect around the house. Naturally lower light levels and periods of prolonged rain can do their utmost to dampen spirits. Lift your homes profile with outdoor lighting, to welcome guests and deter intruders. Attractive permanent porch lighting – coach lights, spotlights and lampposts – can do much for home security as well as appearing welcoming. Use quick to install, low-voltage lighting throughout the front garden to highlight path edges and spotlight feature planting.

Decorating your house for Christmas can bring a ‘family feel’ to your home. Outdoor fairy lights, rope lights and icicle lights used in moderation can look wonderful. Take advantage of established trees and shrubs to create a ‘Wonderland’ in your own front garden.

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Week 45 - 12th November 2004

Q: We would like to add one or two trees in pots to our small garden. Is it possible to grow trees in containers long-term and how should we care for them?

A. Container-grown shrubs and trees provide a brilliant way to frame a doorway or create a focal point within the garden. A pair of clipped Ligustrum, Holly, Photinia or Laurel positioned either side of a porch or main entrance into the house will immediately command attention, adding an air of sophistication to the simplest façade. While small courtyard gardens, private patios, roof terraces and verandas often cry out for added height in the form of a dainty tree or shapely shrub to cast light shade and provide colourful, year-round interest.

It is quite feasible to grow a tree permanently in a pot, providing its care requirements are met. In most cases, the growth of a tree will be restricted to a certain extent by the confinement of its roots. Fast-growing trees are therefore best treated as only short-term contenders when making your choice. Varieties commonly used for topiary, restrictive pruning or coppicing usually make the best candidates for permanent pot culture.

Of course there are advantages too to growing trees in containers. Tender specimens, such as Citrus, Olive, Oleander, Hibiscus and Pomegranate can all make stunning conservatory plants, but require winter protection. During the summer a spell outdoors will help to improve their health and flowering ability.

Week 46 - 19th November 2004

The choice of suitable container is of paramount importance for the long–term health of any pot-grown plant. Choose a pot of adequate size for your specimen plant, earring on the side of generosity. Large pots should be stable and weighty, to avoid damage during high winds, essentially ‘frost-proof’ and with adequate provision for drainage. Quality heavyweight terracotta, stoneware, wood, zinc or fibre clay containers are all available in a variety of styles to cater for every taste.

To aid drainage still further, raise the pot off the ground on ‘feet’ – purpose made to match your container or utilise blocks of wood, stone or slate tiles. Excess rainwater will be able to escape quickly, reducing the chances of frost damage during cold spells, in addition to preventing waterlogging and providing a healthy growing environment for the roots.

Place a 7cm (3”) layer of broken crocks or gravel over the drainage holes, completely covering the base of the container, before filling with a loam-based compost such as John Innes No 3. For acid-loving plants choose a loam-based ericaceous compost which is lime-free.

Daily Care
Any plant in a pot is more prone to drying out than one growing in the garden. A restricted root system, no access to cool sub-soil and exposed foliage all contribute to containerised plants becoming dehydrated. Regular, thorough watering will compensate for this, supplemented with foliar and slow-release feeds.

During warm or windy weather, watering may be required at least twice a day to replace lost moisture. Apply a slow-release granular fertiliser at the start of the growing season (spring), at the recommended dose, based on the quantity of compost and size of container (calculated in litres). Top-up with a liquid foliar feed as the season progresses, to maintain healthy leaves and vigorous growth.

Ongoing Care
Plants can be moved up in stages of pot size, allowing growth to continue unimpeded and the compost refreshed. When weight prevents this, scrape away the top 5-10cm (2-4”) of loose compost from the surface of the pot and replace with fresh, each year.


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Week 47 - 26th November 2004

Q: With summer a distant memory, how can we remind ourselves of the pleasure our gardens gave?

A. As we all put our gardens to bed for another season, it is great to reflect back over the high points of the colourful summer months. Taking photographs regularly of your garden – its features and problem areas – is a way of constructively analysing your gardening successes and failures.

A glance back through photographs taken just a couple of seasons ago will highlight marked differences in plant size and growth. Photo’s taken at all stages of the making of a new flower bed, digging of a pond and construction of a patio can act as a historical reminder of the considerable time commitment you have invested lovingly into your garden. It is surprising how quickly we forget the pain and effort involved in building a new feature once it has been successfully completed!

With a new gardening year approaching, it’s the ideal time to begin taking monthly photographs, to act as a ‘Gardeners Calendar’ for future reference. Why not give a gardening friend a photograph album for Christmas with this in mind? Just a few snaps, casually taken at regular intervals throughout the season will catalogue the progress of new plantings, favourite shrubs and bedding displays. Don’t forget to date the reverse side for an accurate record.

Looking back at my own photographs recently, I was reminded how well the summer poppies flowered – encouraging me to plant more; how quickly new herbaceous plantings took hold, even though they didn’t go in until the end of June and how tidy the garden looks when freshly mown and edged. In addition, they have also emphasised the need to redevelop some ‘boring’ areas, which seriously lack colour and interest for much of the year. I can now happily draw up plans over the winter months for their transformation next spring.

Week 48 - 3rd December 2004

One or two shrubs have slowly been declining in vigour over the years, almost without perception. A quick glance back through photographs taken five or more years ago quickly reveals the full extent of the relapse and galvanises me into action to confront the problem.

Renovations
Many old, congested, tangled and neglected shrubs respond well to sensitive rejovination, producing vigorous new growth from the base. To be worth considering drastic action, the shrub must be healthy and free from major disease. If sickness is suspected, it could well be responsible for the plants decline in the first place.

If in doubt as to a particular varieties tolerance of drastic pruning, seek advice at the garden centre or stagger pruning over two or three years to reduce the shock. Prune deciduous shrubs after flowering and evergreens in mid spring (April). Cut out half the stems 5-8cm (2-3”) from the base, shortening the remainder by 1/3. Repeat the process the following year, thereafter return to normal pruning.

When drastic action is required, reduce all growth to 30-45cm (12-18”) from the base, completely removing all crossing, dead, damaged and diseased wood.

Replacement growth will only be as good as soil nutrients will allow. After completing any pruning work, remove all debris from the plant, binning or burning woody growth and composting foliage. Surround stems with a nutritious mulch of garden compost, well-rotted farmyard manure or peat, pricking lightly in the soil surface. The additional application of a slow-release fertiliser may be advantageous if growth seems poor. Water well during the coming season to ensure soil nutrients are accessible.

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Week 49 - 2nd December 2004

Q: I’m stuck for Christmas present ideas again this year. Chocolates and wine make great gifts, but are hardly the health-conscious option. What can you suggest for fabulous, long-lasting presents?

A: Houseplants - the perfect gift for ANY occasion! When well chosen and simply cared-for, indoor plants can make long lasting reminders and a thoughtful gift.

Impress your family and friends with your ‘expert knowledge’ on basic care tips, for guaranteed growing success!

Some of the best to look out for are…

Azaleas put on an unbeatable show from Christmas through to spring. Their sumptuous flowers range from crystal white to rich red, including almost every shade in between. Perfect for a cool room, conservatory or porch, these Prima donnas will go on producing flowers from year to year with a little TLC. Keep moist and well lit to prolong flowering, with a daytime temperature not exceeding 60 degrees F. Deadhead regularly, snapping spent blooms and seed heads off with finger and thumb. Most importantly, avoid extremes of dryness or waterlogging at the roots – always keep evenly moist, using soft or filtered water. Repot into ericaceous compost as necessary.

Cyclamen are not surprisingly one of the most popular of all winter-flowering pot plants. Their tolerance, floral display and charm are renowned. Compact growth with beautifully swept-back petals in an array of exquisite colours make cyclamen affirmed winter-wonders. Once again, keep cool – with room temperatures between 50-60 degrees F for best results. Avoid wetting the fleshy crown of the plant; instead allow the compost surface to dry slightly between waterings. Choose a brightly lit spot for your cyclamen, away from direct sunlight and sources of heat. Deadhead spent blooms by a twist of the flower stem, held close to its base.

To be continued next week....

Week 50- 9th December 2004

Continued from last week....

Indoor Bulbs, mossed and growing in a bowl or basket bring the joy of spring indoors. Choose from Amaryllis, Crocus, Hyacinth, Narcissus and Tulips as a simple introduction to the world of indoor gardening. Children especially, find the thrill of watching a bulb sprout over a saucer of water irresistible. Specially prepared bulbs for flowering during the Christmas period are more expensive than regular garden varieties, but well worth the little extra. Blooms are almost guaranteed on Christmas day, after the simplest indoor treatment. Provide light, moisture and minimal warmth for a long-lasting display. Many varieties are highly scented too, so follow your nose to the most powerfully perfumed!

Orchids were once considered almost unthinkable as houseplants – how wrong they were! It has now been discovered that a number will flourish quite happily in average room conditions, given only basic knowledge. It takes more than five years for the average pot orchid to reach saleable flowering size, so prices often reflect this. However, interior designers have not overlooked their exotic beauty and luxurious charm. Orchids have spawned a host of related merchandise from bedspreads to perfume, silk flowers to cushions. Join the elate with an orchid of your own, to furnish your bedroom or glamorise your sitting room. Good light, shaded from glaring direct sun is important, along with a nighttime drop in temperature of about 10 degrees. Aim for a day temperature of 70 in the summer, falling to 60 degrees in winter. Keep the compost (chunky bark) surface moist, watering once or twice a week with soft water, including a little feed during the summer.

Poinsettias are as much a symbol of Christmas as holly and the turkey! In fact, their bright red, pink, salmon-peach or cream ‘flowers’ are actually coloured bracts – modified leaves surrounding the diminutive blooms within. Shelf life has been drastically increased by current growing trends for ‘hard’ plants. Nurserymen have honed their skills to produce stocky, compact plants, tolerant of lower temperatures – all good news for the houseplant-buying public. Provide maximum light during winter with only average room temperatures. Be warned – their stems are as fragile as glass. Handle plants with care when making your selection to avoid damaging neighbouring stems and always insist on a protective plant ‘sleeve’ to carry your precious purchase home.

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Week 51 - 16th December 2004
No weekly tips for 16th December 2004

Week 52 - 23rd December 2004
No weekly tips for 23rd December 2004

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Week 01 - 1st January 2005

Q: I am keen to encourage a friend to give gardening a go. Where would be a good starting point?

A: With Twelfth Night upon us, it’s time to pack away the Christmas tree, baubles, tinsel and cards for yet another year. It maybe cold outside, but those of us with green fingers will be itching to get GROWING! Don’t despair if inclement weather puts pay to your gardening plans outdoors, turn your attention instead, to the inside of your home and decorate it with the colours of SPRING.

Houseplants make it possible for EVERYONE to taste the delights of gardening, whether they live in a city apartment or country cottage. Even the elderly, disabled, young or inexperienced can find tending an indoor garden rewarding. As ones horticultural experience grows, the possibilities become almost limitless – with a little imagination and flare, any home can be transformed into an interesting and stimulating environment in which to live.

Any room with a window is perfect, be it warm or cold – there are plants to suit. With imagination, any position can cater for a delightful, living, growing decoration. The right plant in the right place will flourish on the floor, wall, table, window ledge, mantelpiece, stairwell, or hearth (when no fire), - or scrambling over picture frames, cascading from baskets, suspended from the ceiling or weaving through a trellis screen…the possibilities are endless.

Undemanding, ‘easy’ plants are a great way to start. By receiving rewarding results, aspiring gardeners can build confidence, fire enthusiasm and gain valuable experience. Setting oneself the challenge of taking on a more ‘demanding’ subject once experience has been gained can spark the thrill of growing unusual plants - forever.

To be continued next week....


Week 02 - 8th January 2005
Continued from 1st January 2005....

Nice and easy does it…!

‘Hot Water Plant’ – Achimenes
A misleading name for a plant that will tolerate neglect and reward its owner with rounded flowers in a variety of velvety colours. Small rhizomes start into growth in the spring, producing deep green leaves, with colourful blooms well into autumn.

‘Cast Iron Plant’ – Aspidistra
A favourite of the Victorians with a ‘cast iron constitution’. Capable of withstanding extreme neglect and pollution, but will often curl up its toes if over watered. However, when properly looked after, the Aspidistra will grow into a hansom foliage houseplant, outliving more modern introductions.

‘String of Hearts’ – Ceropegia
Silver marbled dainty leaves are spaced along fine trailing stems – one for dangling over the edge of shelves or perfect for creating a ‘curtain’ of bead-like foliage, in front of a window. Easy and rewarding; tolerating less light than many other succulents.

‘Rubber Plant’ – Ficus elastica
The most well known indoor tree. Large oval leaves radiate from stout stems, quickly forming an impressive-sized plant and all-to-quickly outgrowing its space! The delightful variegated leafed varieties grow at more moderate rates.

‘Flaming Katy’ – Kalanchoe
Compact, colourful, long-lasting…what more could you ask of any houseplant? Toothed fleshy leaves form the perfect backdrop to plentiful clusters of candy-coloured flowers. Tiny plants are perfect for the terrarium, larger ones for a table centrepiece or planted arrangement.

‘African Violet’ – Saintpaulia
In recent years the African Violet has become one of the most popular houseplants, almost reaching cult status. Velvety flowers in rich jewel colours are punctuated by occasional picotee, double and rosebud hybrids - the hardest part is making your selection! Avoid chilling and over watering for a truly long-lasting house companion.

‘Spineless Yucca’ – Yucca
Perfect for a bright and spacious entrance hall, corner of a room, or porch where a pest-free, sun-loving plant is needed. Gnarled trunks support rosettes of spiky, sword shaped leaves, which build slowly into magnificent crowns. May be placed outside for the summer months.

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Week 03 - 15th January 2005

Q: I have a selection of familiar houseplants but yearn for something a little more unusual. What do you recommend to stretch my gardening abilities?

A: One of the fascinations of gardening is the challenge of trying to grow some of the more difficult plants on offer. Even once experience has been gained, success is not always guaranteed! Experimenting with more demanding specimens can help to build confidence as well as honing expertise.

Houseplants requiring higher temperatures, humidity and care often reward their owners with exceptional exotic flowers, luxuriant foliage or a combination of both.

Whilst most houseplants are inexpensive, they can also provide temporary colour and interest in a room. As objects of beauty, indoor plants help to provide a restful and relaxing atmosphere, greatly improving the general home environment.

‘Quality’ is as important in plants as in any other commodity. Don’t be tempted to go for ‘cheap-and-cheerful’ unless you know it really is good value. Look out for the signs of good care and attention, and take your new purchase home, carefully wrapped and insulated. Once acclimatised, your new houseplant will certainly get off to a great start in life – and you’ll be well on the way to growing success!

Flamboyant Foliage and Flowers

‘Joseph’s Coat / Croton’ – Codiaeum variegatum pictum
Sporting ‘leaves of many colours’, this species has a vast number of cultivars, offering the widest choice of tropical foliage. Thick, spoon-shaped or ribbon-like leaves provide a dramatic year-round feature. Their delicate network of leaf veins are highlighted in yellow, orange or red, often with the entire leaf flushed a contrasting shade. Foliage this good demands a constant, humid and temperature-controlled environment - not all that difficult to achieve in a modern home. The secret lies in standing the pot plant on a ‘pebble tray’ filled with fresh water – to raise local humidity. Avoid constant draughts from opening doors and windows, and ensure maximum daylight, shielded from direct sun, for the most stunning foliage. Minimum temperature 15 degrees C / 60 degrees F.
Continued Next Week....

Week 04 - 22nd January 2005
Continued from last week....

‘Goldfish Plant’ – Columnea
Golden orange (or yellow) ‘leaping-fish’ flowers jump from this winter-blooming marvel. Invaluable for hanging pots and baskets indoors, the ‘Goldfish Plant’ demands a comfortably warm home. Trailing stems may reach 90cm (3ft) or more when given favourable growing conditions, creating a dramatic hanging centrepiece for the conservatory or sunroom. The secret to success lies in year-round moisture for the roots and humidity for the leaves. A gentle mist of rainwater will encourage healthy, new growth and raise the ambient humidity – essential if your home is centrally heated. Minimum temperature 13 degrees C / 55 degrees F.

‘Weeping Fig’ – Ficus benjamina
It is doubtful that a more elegant and graceful indoor tree could be found! The ‘Weeping Fig’ will eventually reach colossal proportions given time and the best growing environment. Drooping, spear-shaped foliage cloths slender branches - slowly building to form a graceful, weeping tree-like shape. Makes a splendid specimen plant for the modern home or office complex, where adequate light and headroom will allow. Avoid direct bright sunlight and dry air to prevent foliage tips from yellowing prematurely. Surround with damp compost or place on a ‘pebble tray’ to raise local humidity. Minimum temperature 13 degrees C / 55 degrees F.

‘Chinese Rose’ – Hibiscus
Ideal for the centrally heated home with good humidification - the Hibiscus hails from lush, tropical countries, where its annual growth can top 1.8m (6ft) in a season. Fear-not, as an indoor pot plant it’s far better behaved! Glossy, deep green foliage remains attractive all year, forming a pleasing compact, bushy plant. Ruffled, trumpet-shaped blooms unfurl around a central boss of stamens and stigma, often revealing a darker central ‘throat’. Unfortunately, each bloom only lasts a couple of days, but between May and September, their production is almost endless. Look out for blousy ‘doubles’ in scrumptious shades and variegated leaf forms to add to your collection. Winter minimum 15 degrees C / 51 degrees F.

‘Peace Lily’ – Spathiphyllum
Produces a succession of pure white ‘spathes’ rising above hansom, drooping deep green leaves, forming perhaps the perfect houseplant? On closer inspection, the curious ‘flowers’ consist of a modified flag-like ‘petal’, wrapped around a central catkin- spike of petal-less creamy coloured flowers. Provide very light shade and high humidity to maintain this serene picture of ‘peace’. Shield with a fine net curtain or blind to prevent the strong rays of summer sun from scorching the tips of the foliage. Best away from cold draughts and sources of heat (radiators, fires, heaters etc.) Winter minimum 10-13 degrees C / 50-55 degrees F.

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Week 05 - 29th January 2005
Gardeners Corner Notebook for Mid January to Mid February 2005!

The first Aconite or Snowdrop of the New Year is an exciting discovery. It's hard to imagine any colourful bloom of summer more welcome. Stirrings beneath the ground are evident as the blue-green spears of Narcissus push their way through the softened earth, in preparation for flowering in a month or two.
Jasminum nudiflorum opens its egg-yolk yellow tiny blooms during mild spells, studding naked green branches. This hardy, tolerant climber is often criticized for being common, but there is nothing vulgar about its cheerful yellow blooms against a red brick garden wall.
To keep Winter Jasmine at its best, remove old branches at the base in spring, after flowering, allowing vigorous juvenile stems space to flourish. When trained against a wall Jasminum nudiflorum can reach 4.5 metres, alternatively, if regularly clipped it can be maintained as a shrub. Partner with Mahonia japonica, Elaeagnus pungens 'Maculata' and golden heaths for an uplifting display.
Many of the shrubs that brave the winter weather to bloom now, share the similarity of small flowers, presumably to lessen the chances of winter damage. Witch Hazel, Sarcococca, shrubby Honeysuckles, Mahonia, Wintersweet and Viburnums bear clusters of tiny blooms, with a pervasive perfume that will drift across the garden, leaving you searching for its source. A small vase filled with just a few stems can scent an entire room. Alternatively cut a single branch and arrange in artistic Japanese fashion, from a shallow
bowl or dish. Remember to crush or peel the ends of woody stems to allow water to be absorbed effectively through the thick bark. A fresh covering of snow reveals the tracks and footprints of dozens of birds and animals visiting the garden. Deer may venture closer than usual in search of food, along with rabbits and hares on the lookout for green shoots, visible above the carpet of snow. Hungry blackbirds and thrushes quickly strip berries from Rowan, Pyracantha and Hollies, leaving only a few scattered on the ground for a passing pheasant.

Belated New Years Resolution…
Whenever you buy or are given a plant that is new to you, take the time to look it up in at least two gardening books - there are excellent publications on the market today. This way you will able to give you new "treasure" the best start in life, whilst adding another name to your gardening repertoire.

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Week 06 - 5th February 2005
Q: I have seen a fantastic display of orchids at my local garden centre and am tempted to give them a go. What do I need to know about orchid care and the differences in variety?

A: Anyone who starts to grow houseplants is sure to fall victim to the charms of orchids at some point. For many years, they languished under the pretence of being difficult to grow, requiring specialist attention and care. Fortunately, this popular misconception has been swept away by a growing band of enthusiasts, as they are fast becoming the ultimate in houseplants.

Tropical orchids didn’t appear in the western world until the 18th century and are linked with many famous explorers, such as Captain Cook and Charles Darwin, who were partly responsible for their introduction. Today, the modern hybrids that we grow are the results of decades of selection and hybridization from original wild species. Sadly, many species have become extremely rare in their native homelands, partly due to loss of habitat and previous over collection. Fortunately, today’s modern ‘man-made’ introductions benefit from tremendous health and vigour, with flamboyant flowers in an array of stunning colours, combined with a tolerance of varied growing conditions.

Surprisingly, many varieties are winter blooming, providing an exotic display during the bleakest months. However, with careful selection it is possible to have orchids in bloom throughout the year – creating a real challenge for the aspiring enthusiast!

Cultivation
The majority of orchids offered for sale are ‘epiphytes’ – meaning that they are used to an ‘aerial lifestyle’, high amongst the tree canopy of tropical rainforests. Their roots have developed accordingly, adapting to very little soil, minimal food, but frequent replenishes of moisture. Modern orchid compost has been developed to mimic these treetop conditions perfectly, allowing free-drainage and excellent airflow to the roots. Never be tempted to re-pot plants into conventional potting compost, as their delicate roots are sure to suffer as a result.

Mimic nature by watering frequently from the compost surface, as it shows signs of almost drying out, including a little soluble food in every 3 out of 4 waterings. Shade plants from hot summer sun (as the surrounding leaf canopy would do in the forest), whilst maintaining bright and airy growing conditions. Finally, avoid cold draughts from doors and windows at all costs. Maintain an even, warm growing environment for perfect plant health.

To be continued next week....


Week 07 - 12th February 2005
continued from last week....

Exotic Beauties
‘Cymbidium’ – Cymbidium
The Cymbidium is probably the best known and most popular orchid in the world! – Quite a statement, but this orchid is still worthy of its reputation. It will grow almost anywhere given warm, bright summers and cool autumn and winter nights. Daytime minimum temperature 16 degrees C /60 degrees F, night time 10-12 degrees C / 50-54 degrees F.

Perfect for the home, conservatory or cool greenhouse, with bright light, without direct sun. Cymbidiums flower annually, from autumn to late spring, in a wide range of colours. Long lasting blooms – up to 3 months each.

‘Moth Orchid’ – Phalaenopsis
Arched sprays of rounded blooms ‘appear like moths’ hovering above tidy dark green leaves. Its modest, spoon-like foliage is an asset, creating a backdrop, but barely noticeable above the pot. Blooms are available in a huge array of shades through white, pink, magenta to pastel peach, soft orange and yellow – often with intriguing stripes or speckled markings. Multiple blooms and a seemingly never-ending succession of flower stems makes this one of the most floriferous plants on the market.

The perfect variety for a bedroom, drawing room or lounge where a ‘class act’ is essential. Preferred daytime temperature 20 degrees C+ / 68 degrees F, falling to 17 degrees C / 63 degrees F at night.

Odontoglossum / Oncidium / Miltonia
A closely allied group of orchids sharing similar characteristics. Called the ‘Queen of Orchids’ by the Victorians, their crimped six petaled flowers are often heavily ‘spotted’ with a contrasting deeper shade. Canary yellow to deep mahogany red, or cherry pink are the majority of colour ways available. Suitable for the well-shaded conservatory, heated greenhouse or home where their year-round flowers can be fully appreciated. Preferred daytime temperature 22 degrees C / 75 degrees F. Night 11-13 degrees C / 51-56 degrees F.

‘Slipper Orchid’ – Paphiopedium
Cleverly named for its pouched lip, the Slipper Orchid is perfectly suited to the modern centrally heated home. Preferred minimum daytime temperature 21 degrees C / 70 degrees F, dropping at night to 18 degrees C / 65 degrees F. Flourishes in good, but indirect light – perfect for a north-facing windowsill.

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Week 08 - 19th February 2005

Q: I’ve never been a great fan of brightly coloured Dahlias, Begonias, Gladioli and other summer flowering bulbs - probably because I don’t know how to use them in the garden. The bulbs in the garden centre look plump and healthy, and their price makes them great value, but I don’t want them to ‘upset’ my already attractive borders. How can I use summer-flowering bulbs to best effect in my garden?

A: Fashions change in gardening almost as quickly as they do on the high street. It wasn’t so very long ago that Dahlias and Begonias were regarded as the height of bad taste – but not anymore! 70’s gardens of bold, brash bedding schemes, with regimented rows of ‘flowers’ did much to disguise the natural beauty of many of our popular summer-flowering bulbs, corms and tubers. Fortunately, today’s more ‘relaxed’ approach and styles of planting has given many varieties a second chance of winning friends.

When used with a dash of imagination, the bold colours of Dahlias or the ‘blousy’ blooms of Begonias can dazzle onlookers, just as easily as media-hyped ‘New’ plant introductions. The secret to success lies in CREATIVE PLANTING - employing eminently suitable companions, building subtle combinations of complimentary colours or memorable fiery contrasts.

Take a leaf from Mother Nature’s book of plant combinations for a simplified approach to planting. She often uses a limited ‘pallet’ of plants, but repeats them over, and over again – occasionally introducing others of a similar colour or shape. The overall effect is softened further by a continual drift of one singular species – for example grass – running through the entire scheme. Hey-presto…a stunningly simple, but effective planting arrangement.
Continued Next Week.... 'Putting it into practice'


Week 09 - 26th February 2005
Continued from last week....

A singular bright colour, for example vermillion orange Begonias or flame-red Canna Lilies, often looks best when seen in isolation. Try cascading bright orange Begonias in hanging baskets – 5 or 6 to a 14” basket – hung in front of black weatherboard cladding or a glossy black garage door. The simple combinations are often the best – and this one will send you reaching for your sunglasses.

Likewise, a closely allied colour scheme can succeed with dazzling results. Create a ‘hotbed’ of flame-red, orange and yellow shades, using Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ and ‘Autumn Fire’, Canna ‘Indiana’, Crocosmia ‘Lucifer’ and Gladiolus ‘Little Darling’. Intersperse the tall-growing Dahlias and Gladioli with ‘Golden Oats’ – Stipa gigantea, flowing into a ribbon of Stipa tenusissima in the foreground. The bold, deep bronze-purple foliage of Dahlia ‘Bishop of Llandaff’ and Canna ‘Indiana’ will provide yet another contrast against the feathery, golden grass foliage.

‘Jewel’ colours of purple, blue and blood red work extremely well together, especially when ‘lightened’ by dashes of golden yellow Bidens ‘daisies’ and lime-green Euphorbia foliage. Try Gladiolus byzantinus and ‘Prince Indigo’, combined with dark red ball Dahlia ‘Moor Place’ and huge cerise ‘Suffolk Punch’. Add a dash of blue in the form of Salvia guaranitica ‘Blue Enigma’, a wonderful long-flowering shrubby-perennial, and a sparkle of Verbena bonariensis, allowed to self-seed at will.

You may think that ‘subtlety’ and ‘summer bulbs’ would be a combination difficult to achieve? Not so…Eremurus, the elegant ‘Fox-Tail Lily’ is the epitome of sylph-like gracefulness, and a plant to hanker after. Growing into clump-forming perennials, the amazing roots of Eremurus can only be described as octopus-like; sending fleshy tentacles in every direction form a conspicuous central crown. Plant in free-draining, sun-drenched soil for plants to prosper and increase in size, year-after-year. Combine ivory and pink Fox Tail Lilies with heavily scented Regale Lilies, Lilium regale, Dahlia ‘Pontiac’ and dainty Gladiolus ‘Nymph’ for a soothing combination. This alliance would revel in a sunny position, benefiting from the companionship of soft, silvery-grey foliage in the form of Artemisia, Cardoon, Scotch Thistle and Teuchrium fruiticans, for a truly subtle combination.

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Week 10 - 5th March 2005

Q: I love Lilies as cut flowers in the house and would like to add them to my garden too. Are they difficult to grow?

A: Lilies are amongst the most graceful and exotic of summer flowering bulbs – adding an instant vibrancy and decadence to your summer beds and borders.

Tall, graceful stems carry exquisite flowers in a vast array of shapes – many with the added bonus of perfume. With such a vast variety to choose from and an array of showy hybrids, Lilies are the low-cost luxury that every gardener can afford.

Most Lilies make excellent border and woodland plants, carrying themselves to perfection combined with perennials and Old English roses. However, a few of the smaller-growing species and dwarf hybrids can make colourful additions to the rockery or incorporated with summer bedding at the front of the border. Regardless of size or stature, all Lilies look wonderful massed in planters and patio containers, where their delicate beauty can be admired close to hand. And of course, there is no reason why you can’t cut a few stems for the house too!

To simplify this complex group of plants, botanists have sub-divided Lilies into 9 different groups, ranging from the heavily perfumed Orientals to upward-facing Asiatics, exquisitely reflexed Turkscap to specialist Species varieties – according to their flower shape, breeding or country of origin. A glance at the garden centre shelves will quickly reveal the obvious similarities between group members, enabling confident selection.
Continued Next Week....


Week 11 - 12th March 2005
Continued from Last Week....

Choice of Bulbs
Always buy plump, fresh bulbs and plant them immediately. The bulbs lack of a protective ‘papery’ outer casing means they are at the mercy of drying heat and rough handling – often rendering them shrivelled and mouldy within weeks. Examine Lily bulbs with care and consideration – perhaps as you would a rip peach. They can be easily bruised causing their chances of flourishing in your garden to diminish.

Site and Soil
Most Lilies thrive in a wide range of soils, providing they have been ‘well-worked’ with nutritious compost and grit, beforehand. Generally, a neutral to alkaline pH is satisfactory for the vast majority, with just the Oriental Hybrids, originating from Japan, preferring an acid soil. Simply fill containers with quality ericaceous compost to make this group feel at home. Just a few select American species Lilies prefer damp woodland conditions; all the others thrive in an average, free-draining, well-cultivated garden soil.

Many varieties of Lily are ‘stem-rooting’, requiring a deep planting hole of two-and-a-half times the dept of the bulb, to support extra roots on the stem. Once again there is an exception to this rule – Cottage garden favourite, the Madonna Lily, Lilium candidum only requires a covering of 2.5cm (1”) to be happy.

Routine Care
Stake tall growing varieties as a precaution. After months of anticipation, it is a sad site to find full grown flower stems broken or damaged. Tie individually with a cane and soft string (paying special attention to avoid skewering the bulb when inserting each cane), or employ a ‘grid-style’ plant support, suspended overhead early in the season.

Bulbs planted in flower borders should only require watering during drought conditions, or if showing obvious signs of stress. However, water containerised plants on a regular basis, including a dose of growth enhancing soluble plant food, once a week during the summer.

WARNING
All lily pollen will stain light coloured clothing if rubbed in. Take time to remove the unopened pollen stamens from cut flowers brought indoors to avoid marking a tablecloth, or grow pollen-less DOUBLE-FLOWERED VARIETIES instead!

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Week 12 - 19th March 2005

Q: I’ve never thought of growing Fuchsias before – are they difficult?

A: One of the most rewarding, spectacular and undemanding plants that both amateur and professional gardeners can grow, is the Fuchsia. No two plants are ever alike, with varieties falling into distinct categories according to their growth habits and characteristics. Teardrop-shaped buds burst to reveal the sumptuous ruffled petals of ‘doubles’, hooped-skirts of ‘singles’, or elongated tubes of many ‘species’ varieties. All cultivars and species may be used for summer bedding schemes, in pots, tubs and containers, or planted permanently throughout the garden – with many varieties also hardy enough to withstand average winter temperatures.

Discovered by a missionary in 1703, the first Fuchsia was named Fuchsia triphylla coccinea after Leonhart Fuchs, chair of medicine at the University of Tubingen. Over the centuries, the plants popularity gradually increased until it gained almost cult status during the Victorian era. With the onset of the First World War, a forced rethink of gardening priorities caused a decline in plant breeding generally, with Fuchsias suffering as much as the rest. No longer considered as just a symbol of the past, ‘Lady’s Eardrops’ have once again caught the eye of hybridisers, who have been hard at work creating the appealing new pastel shades and huge flower performance seen today.

Fuchsias grown in pots, hanging baskets and patio tubs will remain in flower for months on end, if well cared for. Plants bought in-bud or showing flower colour will continue to produce an endless supply of plump buds, until halted by the arrival of the first frosts.

TRAINING FUCHSIAS
A certain amount of training is important for any Fuchsia, to achieve maximum performance, shape and plant stability. The regular removal, or – ‘pinching out’ – of growing tips in the early stages will ensure a compact, balanced plant, with greater opportunities for flower production. Each pinching out increases the potential number of flowers, but delays flowering. Exhibitors can time flower production to within days of a show, using this method – 60 days for a single to 80 days for a double – ensuring their prized specimens are always in peak condition.
Continued next week....


Week 13 - 26th March 2005

HOW TO TRAIN A STANDARD
Pot-on potential ‘standard’ plants from spring onwards. Select vigerous, healthy, upright plants with an uninterrupted (un-branched) main stem and pot into a container only slightly larger than the first. ‘Cane’ the precious main stem and tie loosely, removing side shoots as they develop. (Be sure to leave foliage intact along the main stem at this stage, as leaves are vital to for food production and healthy plant growth).

Continue to pot on and replace the cane with a taller one as the plant grows. Feed weekly with a balanced, soluble plant food and turn plants daily to ensure even growth.

When your baby ‘standard’ reaches the desired height – 46-73cm (18-29”) for a ‘half’ standard, 76-106cm (30-42”) for a ‘full’ standard – allow a further tree pairs of leaves to develop before finally pinching out the growing tip.

As subsequent side shoots form, re-pinch to encourage a dense and bushy head. Finally, replace the main supporting cane with a new, sturdier model to carry the weight of the finished flowering head with blooms and prevent unnecessary damage.

FUCHSIAS IN THE GARDEN
Though often regarded as tender plants, Fuchsias have many cultivars that will thrive when permanently planted into the garden. Small town gardens, sheltered courtyards, leafy shrubberies and borders backed by walls all make the most ideal conditions. Deeply dig the soil, removing perennial weeds and incorporating large quantities of well-rotted manure or garden compost, to provide the ‘humusy’, nutritious conditions so loved by all Fuchsias. In exceptionally dry or free-draining soils, extra summer irrigation may be required, in addition to the initial watering, to allow plants to become established. With the onset of winter, pack fallen leaves, straw or bark mulch into the crowns of plants, to protect lower buds from freezing temperatures. As spring approaches, prune all stems to within a few inches of ground level and feed with a slow-release, organic fertiliser, gearing up to the season ahead.

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Week 14 - 2nd April 2005

Q: The walls and fences around my garden look especially drab at this time of year. Is there anything I can plant to provide early spring colour?

A: The delicate, nodding, ‘harebell’ flowers of Clematis alpina and C. macropetala are a joy to see each spring, revealing in bursts of sunshine; as one of the earliest flowering Clematis, their versatility and hardiness far out ways a fleeting appearance.

Belonging to the ‘Atragene’ group of Clematis, both alpina and macropetala are incredibly cold hardy, with flower buds cheerfully withstanding temperatures as low as minus 8 degrees C (18 degrees F) and mature plants recovering from minus 35 degrees C (-31 degrees F), making them perfect for growing through wall shrubs and trees on any aspect. In fact, their hardiness guarantees their suitability for a variety of inhospitable, exposed positions, on the North Eastern corner of a building or perhaps cascading from an urn or patio container, in a windswept part of the garden.

Slender, twiggy growth quickly ascends to 2-4m (6 1/2-13ft), creating a network of dense flowering stems. Fresh young shoots appear each spring, accompanying ferny-green leaves and pregnant down-covered flower buds. From May onwards, silky seed heads replace fading petals, creating the appearance of attractive hedgerow ‘Old Man’s Beard’, and persisting well into winter.

No regular pruning is required, so avoid pairing with high-maintenance roses or annually pollarded shrubs, to prevent a pruning dilemma. Instead, reduce top-growth by just 1/3rd every 3 or 4 years, if a tangled ‘bird’s nest’ of stems have formed out of reach. As flowers are produced in the leaf axils of the previous season’s growth, remedial pruning should ideally be carried out immediately after flowering - by mid May - to prevent a disappointing flower show next season.

Like most Clematis, spring-flowering varieties relish plentiful supplies of food and water during the growing season. A deeply worked, rich soil is perfect for happy growth, assisted by generous amounts of garden compost or well rotted farmyard manure. ‘Shade their roots, with heads in the sun’ is the motto for all Clems - with growth naturally searching out the sunniest aspect, but to ensure a cool root run, employ a mulch of cobbles, slate or a companionable shrub.
To be continued next week....


Week 15 - 9th April 2005

PLANTING SUGGESTIONS
Clematis alpina and macropetala also make superb container plants, easily trained onto a variety of supports. Use a soil-based John Innes compost when planting, into any large container with permanent drainage holes. As with all Clematis, bury the root ball 2-4” bellow the soil surface, encouraging basal buds to develop below the compost and guaranteeing recovery should the main stems above ground level unwittingly become damaged.

Try the larger flowered Clematis alpina ‘Francis Rivis’ over a tripod of dark blue trellis, or double pink Clematis macropetala ‘Markham’s Pink’ scrambling through a burgundy-red painted obelisk.

For a springtime feature in an exposed part of the garden, plant the blue and white Clematis ‘Prairie River’ into a tall Ali-baba shaped terracotta jar and allow its stems to cascade unsupported over the sides - creating a curtain of foaming blue flowers. Likewise, the pure white simplistic blooms of ‘White Columbine’ or many-petaled ‘Snowbird’ would create an enchanting picture, when set against a dark green hedge or the backdrop of a shady courtyard.

As with all containerised plants, top-dress annually with fresh compost each spring - gently scraping away the surface 2-3” of compost and replacing with new. The addition of a compound fertiliser applied at the same time will fuel months of growth and save the need for mixing dilute soluble feeds during the growing season.

All Clematis of the Atragene group are far more resilient to the dreaded ‘Clematis-Wilt’, than their larger flowered cousins. As a precautionary note, treat pot-grown clematis annually against Vine weevil, to the prevent grubs setting up home amongst their tender roots.

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Week 16 - 16th April 2005

Q: What’s the difference between a Geranium and a Pelargonium?

A: Pelargonium is the botanical name for a group of tender evergreen perennials hailing from South Africa. On introduction to Britain they adopted the familiar name of ‘Geranium’ due to their similarities to our hardy perennial Geranium’s commonly seen growing in cottage gardens and meadows of the time. This ‘common’ name remains in regular use today, implying a tender, colourful summer bedding plant, that’s still a favourite with the masses.

True Geraniums are not to be confused with tender Pelargoniums and are almost all hardy and provide exceptional value for money amongst rockeries and herbaceous borders.

TYPES OF PELARGONIUM
Pelargoniums are loosely divided into five or six separate categories according to their predominant distinguishing features; zonal, dwarf, regal, angel, ivy-leaved and scented-leaved.

Zonal Pelargoniums are one of the essential summer bedding plants, with modern seed-raised strains meeting the demand for fast-growing, non-stop flowering, showy bedding plants. Rounded, light to deep green leaves are marked with a typical ‘horseshoe’ shaped central ‘zone’ of chocolate brown colouring. Flowers are typically single, or semi double, with occasional ‘rosebud’ creations stealing the limelight.

Traditionally, Zonals have always been mass planted, in bold Victorian-style displays, however, they also provide great impact simply grown in terracotta pots – continental style – dotted along a balcony edge or lining a flight of steps.
To be continued next week....

Week 17 - 23rd April 2005

Dwarf and Mini-Zonals have increased in popularity over recent years, not least because of their compact ‘neatness’ and value-for-money ‘flower power’. Reaching no more than 13-20cm (5-8”) tall, with close-coupled stems and miniature leaves, ‘Mini’s’ make excellent window box, greenhouse and indoor pot plants.

Regal Pelargoniums are the Prima Donnas of the bedding plant world, creating a stir at the Chelsea Flower Show and Horticultural exhibitions alike. Their trumpet shaped flowers in exotic regal shades draw the eye and command praise for well-grown specimens. Flowers can be quickly spoilt by rain, making them ideal conservatory plants – providing a perfect setting for showing off a carefully grown half-standard form.

Angel’s are densely bushy versions of their ‘regal’ parents, more suited to life outdoors and container gardening. Gorgeous bi-coloured flowers in rich fruity shades are held clear of the slightly glossy, mid-green serrated leaves. Combine with trailing Verbena, Ageratum and trailing Lobelia in patio containers, hanging baskets and window boxes, for a summer long display.

Ivy-Leaved Pelargoniums are essential ingredients for creating the perfect balcony and hanging basket garden. Their cascading stems and waxed ivy-shaped leaves trail helplessly over the sides of raised containers, displaying an endless succession of petit single or semi-double flowers. Newer varieties with picotee blooms, edged in a contrasting shade and the introduction of deepest burgundy-red have inspired many gardeners to enjoy experimenting with outstanding colour combinations.

Scented-leaved Pelargoniums generally have small or almost insignificant flowers, but instead are gown for their pungently perfumed leaves. The choice of peppermint, lemon-rose, citrus and orange, eucalyptus, cedar wood, camphor-pine and even ‘Old Spice’ are there to be tried. Their highly perfumed essential oils are all the more apparent when grown ‘hard’ in free-draining compost and full sun. Create a collection for the conservatory or potted herb garden and enjoy one of nature’s best homegrown potpourris.

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Week 19 - 12th May 2005

Q: I'm planning an evening with friends - how should I prepare my BBQ?

A: On a summer's day it's hard to beat the smell of food sizzling on the barbie, while you sit back, relax and enjoy summer living.

With just a little preparation at the beginning of the season, effortless entertaining at a moments notice is easy, using everyday ingredients to conjure a multitude of stunning barbeque dishes and create a memorable outdoor feast.

Dust off the BBQ…
Give last seasons model a wipe over with warm soapy water, removing oil and cooking stains. Empty the oven or ash pan of old briquettes if a charcoal burner and dust off reusable ceramic briquettes. Replace lava rocks if necessary, to reduce fat-induced flare-ups while cooking on gas, and check that the venturi tubes are clear.

Avoid applying oven cleaner directly onto the surface of your BBQ as it may affect the factory applied paint finish. Instead remove the grids and place on newspaper well away from the oven before spraying. Alternatively, if the interior and grills are only lightly soiled, heat the BBQ to its maximum temperature, to sterilise and burn-off food debris.

Stock up on firelighters, charcoal briquettes, and a spare gas bottle (Propane or Butane), depending on model, to avoid running short, mid-party.

Treat yourself to one or two new BBQ accessories to impress your friends and aid culinary expertise. A Cast Iron Griddle is this year's 'must-have' accessory - NOW available for charcoal models - perfect for delicate fish, fried eggs and bacon for breakfast, or American pancake deserts! A Rotisserie Tumble Basket is fantastic for poultry pieces or vegetables, where food will self-baste while turning. Save time chasing sausages with a fork while cooking - the new Sausage Grill holds four simultaneously for easy turning and even cooking. For the first time stir-fry vegetables on the BBQ with a Stainless Steel Grill Wok - easy to clean and perfect for shrimp, chicken, scallops and finely chopped vegetables, or cook Kebabs en-mass with a Shish Kebab Set, using nickel-plated skewers to hold food securely and turn easy.

With your barbeque up and running, check that the furniture is fit for your guests…
Clean patio tables and chairs to remove moss, lichen and a build-up of rain-born dirt after a winter outdoors. Plastic and painted furniture will benefit from a wipe with a sponge and warm soapy water, or a detergent filled car-wash brush. Rinse clean with fresh water.

Check manufacturers recommendations for the treatment of new wooden furniture, erring on the side of caution to avoid damage to a fine finish or wood grain. Old wood furniture can be 'brightened' and cleaned of discolouration using a pot scourer and soapy water, or a weak solution of bleach and water. (Note: Some cleaning products may also affect the surface beneath the furniture eg. grass, decking or paving - always site with care when cleaning). However tempting, never power-wash wooden furniture - a pressurised jet of water can easily cut into the wood grain and destroy its finish, leaving a permanently 'fluffy' surface.

Treat clean, dry timber with oil, wax or varnish for a refreshed appearance, or leave untreated for a natural silvery grey patina.

Extend the daylight hours by adding imaginative outdoor lighting to your seating area. Flares, lanterns, tea-lights, strings of fairy lights, parasol and spotlights will create a magical area after dark. Add a further touch of luxury with a patio heater or wood burning chimenea, to warm your guests, whatever the weather.

Arrange patio furniture in a sunny, sheltered corner of the garden and prepare for eating 'al fresco' - add pots of useful herbs, 'cut-and-come-again' salads, cherry tomatoes and night scented Lilies and Stocks, for entertainment to remember.


Week 21 to 22 - 26th May 2005

Q: However full my garden is, I can always find room for the latest plant introductions - What do you recommend as the 'stars' for this year?

A: Each year sees the introduction of hundreds of new varieties, with our dedicated staff painstakingly sifting through the majority, to discover truly 'garden-worthy' youngsters.

Unfortunately, during the first couple of years of release, availability can sometimes be limited as nurseries slowly increase stocks across the country. To be sure not to miss out, place your orders early, or speak to staff that will happily advise you when stock is due.

A must for chocoholics…
Name: Geranium 'Bulls Eye'
Description: As we all know, the geranium is the 'queen' of summer bedding displays, chosen for its bold foliage and stunning flowers. This new group offers blooms in scarlet, salmon, pale pink and cherry, held above the best chocolate-suffused foliage in the business - with the colour intensifying in sun. Plant in groups of three or more for maximum impact - perfect for patio tubs and containers, or bedding schemes in the garden.

A sweet mixture…
Name: Heuchera 'Sweet Delights'
Description: Set to provide the best contrasting foliage displays in town, this new group of Heucheras combine three mouth-watering shades. 'Key Lime Pie', 'Crème Brule' and 'Licorice' will hold your taste buds to ransom - guaranteed to deliver a dynamic container or border display throughout the year. 'Licorice' is burgundy-black with slightly ruffled foliage, while 'Crème Brule' remains almost orange-gold, with 'Key Lime Pie' a citrussy lime-green. Ideal for the front of the border, in semi-shade, or in patio tubs for a year-round display.

Belle of summer…
Name: Campanula 'Purple Pixie'
Description: Enjoy bell-shaped, deep-purple flowers from April throughout summer, on a hardy herbaceous perennial reaching no more than 30cm tall. Revelling in challenging slightly damp, moisture retentive soil, while happy in both sun or partial shade. Perfect for the front of the border.

Poppy Power…
Name: Papaver 'Garden Glory'
Description: If you like poppies, you'll love this one! Producing semi-double, huge salmon pink chiffon blooms, deeply frilled and gorgeous. Flowers appear from June onwards on stout 60cm stems - perfect for the classic cottage garden or deep herbaceous border. Lift and divide once mature to make more plants, replanting in full sun, sheltered from strong gusty winds.

Pretty in pink…
Name: Verbascum 'Jackie in the Pink'
Description: Clear pink flowers with a deeper rose 'eye'. Closely related to the original 'Jackie' Verbascum, and popular garden favourite. With foliage that's soft to the touch and a delicate shade of grey-green, this new 'starlet' is sure to be a winner, dotted from the front to the back of a sunny border. Despite its tall 45-60cm stems, 'Jackie in the pink' requires no additional support once established. Divine associated with ornamental grasses in a 'gravel garden' or amongst 'prairie-style' planting.

Pots of constant colour…
Name: Nemesia 'Celine'
Description: The plant that we've all been searching for…intense summer colour right up to the first frosts, in a fashion shade of Morello-pink. 'Celine' is a must for pots, tubs and containers, or providing colour right to the edge of summer borders. Morello cherry pink flowers with a central yellow eye hover above small leaves and a busy plant, exuding a delicate perfume on warm summer evenings. Deadhead regularly to ensure non-stop flowering and plant in sun, with good drainage.

For bees and butterflies…
Name: Buddleja 'Leela Kapila'
Description: A Buddleja with more than just fabulous flowers! 'Leela 'Kapila' has stunning gold suffused foliage too, guaranteed to brighten even the dullest garden. Her cerise red blooms are a magnet for all kinds of wildlife, especially butterflies and bees, enjoying nectar and a place to rest. A percentage from the proceeds of each sale will go to the Queen's Children's Medical Centre in Nottingham, to aid their continued research.

This beautiful shrub will reach 3m when mature, requiring a sunny and well-drained site for continual flower production. Cut back hard every February to encourage fresh new growth.

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Week 23 to 25 - 9th to 23rd June 2005
Q: For Thursday 9th June 2005

Q: I am often disappointed with the flavour of shop-bought strawberries and wonder if it would be possible to grow my own. Can you offer any advice?

A: Few crops are as eagerly anticipated as fresh strawberries straight from the garden. Synonymous with June, Wimbledon and cream teas, their delicious red berries are packed with vitamins A and C, rich in both Potassium and Calcium and are the quintessential English summer fruit.

Sun-ripened, home-grown fruits taste infinitely better than supermarket-bought produce and can be grown at a fraction of the cost - with individual plants yielding up to 24oz each, but costing less than half the price of a mass-produced punnet.
Space needn't be a problem either - strawberry plants are natural ground-huggers and can be squeezed into the tiniest plot - in pots, tubs and baskets, packed into grow bags, 'towers' or purpose-designed 'strawberry pots' on the patio or roof terrace.
As members of the rose family, their simple 5-petaled flowers are predominantly white, with a very few pink or semi-double flowered forms - grown more for their ornamental value, rather than fruiting abilities. Fragaria 'Pink Panda', 'Variegata' or the alpine strawberry, Fragaria vesca, all make excellent edging plants for a herb garden, vegetable patch or sloping bank, where their stoloniferous ground-hugging stems are particularly valuable.

Varieties:
New varieties of strawberry appear on the market every year, with only a handful staying the course. However, having such a wide selection available enables us to potentially have plants in fruit from June to October - or from as early as May if grown under glass or cloche protection.

Just a few of the commonest varieties on offer: -
'Aromel' - A large, delicious autumn-fruiting variety that may set a bonus crop of fruit in spring - a heavy cropper with vigerous growth.
'Cambridge Rival' - A prolific early cropper with medium-sized conical fruits ideal for freezing. Tall, upright, mildew resistant growth.
'Elsanta' - A reliable mid-season variety, increasingly popular with commercial growers. Vigerous, heavy-cropper with good flavour. Manure soil well before planting and keep well watered to reduce chances of mildew on free-draining soils.
'Gorella' - Early to mid-fruiting, with very large wedge shaped firm fruits of a good flavour. Vigerous spreading plants with good mildew resistance.
'Hapil' - A superb flavoured, mid-season variety, less prone to mildew attack.
'Pandora' - A relatively recent useful introduction bridging the gap between mid- and late-season varieties. Requires a 'pollinating partner' to set fruit - any of the mid- or late-season names will do. Excellent flavour.
'Red Gauntlet' - A heavy yielding, mid-season variety that may produce a useful small second crop if the spring has been cool. Excellent botrytis resistance, with a good, slightly acidic flavour.
'Royal Sovereign' - Excellent flavoured, large, blunt fruits with slight acidity. Produces heavy crops on good soils - vigerous and compact.
'Saladin' - Offering a long season of productivity, producing heavy yields of large orange/red berries with an excellent flavour. Very erect growth with good disease resistance.
'Serenata' - Perfect for the ornamental kitchen garden, where something out of the ordinary is required. Numerous, deep pink fruits are bourn over several months during the summer. Small fruits with a wonderful flavour.

Cultivation
Tempting, as it might be to accept 'home-grown' plants from a neighbour, strawberries are the one exception to the rule, where a clean start is essential. Strawberries can be prone to virus diseases, so only buy from a nursery or garden centre that can guarantee their plants 'virus free'.
Ideally plant in late summer for a full crop the following season and increase the year after. However, plants are generally available for sale all-year-round, allowing an immediate 'taste' of the delights to come. If planted mid season, cropping will be reduced in the first season, building as the plants become established. After three to four years, discard plants and start afresh as yields will have drastically fallen and aged plants become more susceptible to virus attack.
Strawberries will grow happily in a variety of conditions and soil types, preferring a moderately fertile, free-draining sunny site for maximum fruit production. To prevent inherent problems, rotate crops within the garden and avoid sites that have recently grown strawberries, tomatoes or potatoes in any numbers.
Take care when planting that the 'crown' of each plant remains level with the soil surface, allowing 30-45cm (12-18") between plants, 75-100cm (28-36") between rows.
Despite the slight risk of mildew, botrytis and verticillium wilt, strawberries are generally trouble free, easy to grow plants - their biggest predators are BIRDS - so net plants in rural areas to avoid loosing the entire crop to hungry blackbirds and song thrushes.

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Week 26 to 28 - 23rd June 2005

Q: I would like to try growing a few vegetables to try to keep our food bills down and improve my family's health. Can you offer any suggestions?

A: The taste of your own homegrown vegetables is always so much better than shop-bought produce and comes complete with the immense satisfaction of knowing their care and feeding, when served to family and friends.

Rest in the knowledge that your dinners will be truly unique - with the freshest possible produce, rarely offered by even the top restaurants - available on a daily basis. As the importance of organic or minimal chemical use is finally appreciated, so the opportunity to home-growers of producing 'their own' increases. It is surprising how a little will go a long way when it comes to picking only what you need for each meal. Produce stays so much fresher, tastier and packed full of nutrients when it remains on the plant, rather than in the 'salad draw' of the fridge.
By careful planning it is possible to have tempting delicacies available year-round. Choose from varieties bred for great flavour, garden worthiness and ease of cultivation - perfect for the small garden. Best of all, pick them when you want them - in the peak of ripeness, when young and tender.
Even tiny gardens can manage a crop or two of your favourite produce with the introduction of super-dwarf varieties - perfect for life in pots, raised beds or grow bags. Don't be burdened with trying to produce all of your own fresh produce if you are seriously limited by space and time - concentrate instead on the high-value, quick-turnaround salads, luxury asparagus and artichokes or 'sweetest' sweet corn. Main crop potatoes, big winter carrots and slow-maturing root vegetables may still prove more cost-effective when bought from a local organic supplier, saving valuable space for your families favourites.
Integrate vegetables into your borders - minimising the chances of a pest attack and maximising on appeal. Invest in an obelisk or two for quick-growing runner beans, combined with sweet peas, for doubled pickings. Artichokes and Cardoons add 'architectural impact', through their arching silvery-grey leaves and 5-7ft high flower spikes, perfect for the sunny border or when combined with sub-tropical sweetcorn.
Crops that can be harvested a leaf at a time make perfect sense when creating dinner menus, allowing you to pick just enough for each meal. Combine salad leaves with herbs - coriander, parsley, basil, chives and tarragon - for a subtle infusion of flavours. Add colour with peppery tasting Nasturtium flowers, the individual petals of Marigolds (Calendula) or yellow and purple blooms of Heartsease (Viola tricolour).
Don't rule out patio tubs and containers, hanging baskets and window boxes, when looking for growing space. 'Tumbling' tomatoes, trailing strawberries and bushy chillies take up next to no room and make excellent partners for colourful summer bedding plants.
Capitalise on 'companion planting' to harvest a crop, within a crop, sowing quick-maturing lettuce between leeks, cauliflower beneath artichokes or radish amongst parsnips - your very own 'two for the price of one'!

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Week 29 to 31 - 14th July 2005

Q: As the schools break up, can you suggest ways I can interest my children in the garden?

A: With the summer holidays upon us and children at a loose end - its time to set the record straight and fire their interest in the great outdoors. Gardening needn't be 'boring', with endless hours of repetitive tasks - there's fun to be had creating, planting, discovering and building - all it takes is a little inspiration.

Taking time out from our busy lives to appreciate the simple beauty of life and the nature that surrounds each one of us is a lesson we all need reminding, from time to time. If you've never grown a plant from seed, planted a bulb or created a garden - no matter how small - now is the time to start. Sharing the natural world with our children is a wonderful way of spending quality time with them, firing interest and perhaps nurturing a future passion?

Getting started…
Children love to copy, so begin by buying them their own tools, flower pots, watering cans and compost. By letting them help you water your plants they will begin to appreciate what a plant requires to grow. By sharing your packet of seeds, planting their 'own', they will gain a sense of pride, achievement and responsibility for their new charges.

Offering them their own 'patch', preferably within sight of the house where it's effortless to keep an eye on proceedings and easy for the children to monitor their gardens progress, is an ideal way of getting them started. Initial help with digging over the soil or building a raised bed for easy maintenance, will go along way to ensure growing success.

Help them find special plants for their garden - there are many to choose from with appropriate and appealing names such as: - 'Baby's Breath' (Gypsophila), 'Angels Tears' (Narcissus triandrus albus), 'Monkey Flower' (Mimulus) or 'Lamb's Ears' (Stachys byzantina). Some species are best avoided as they can cause skin sensitivity in certain individuals, or stomach upset if eaten. Ask at your local garden centre or plant nursery for advice on the toxicity of potential purchases, or contact your local GP's surgery for a list.

Creative projects…
Children love to play and the key is to educate them through fun learning, with encouragement and support - building upon their natural imagination, honing skills and developing creative talents.

• A miniature garden in a seed tray - Creating our own miniature world is one of the first memories many of us share of 'gardening' as children. Pass on the thrill by encouraging exploration and imagination, with tiny alpine 'trees' (Crassula), 'Fairy Thimbles' (Campanula), miniature lilies (Sisyrinchium) and a springy spreading lawn (Sagina).

• Plant a scented garden - Aromatic herbs and scented varieties that smell of something else are all great fun. Try Pineapple Sage, Lemon Verbena, Orange Mint and Cherry-Pie (Heliotropium). Position where foliage can easily be stroked, flowers smelt and perfumes savoured - ideally close to a path, by a patio or next to the back door.

• Plant easy-to-grow fruit and vegetables - Strawberries, tomatoes, courgettes, pumpkins and peas are all quick growing and effortlessly rewarding. Either grow at home from seed, or purchase young plants that will romp away when planted out. Grow bags make the perfect 'instant garden', full of nutritious compost and with sufficient feed for the first couple of weeks - just add water.

• Organise a nature trail - With wildflower and insect book to hand, plus a magnifying glass and a collection pot, take a closer look at your garden - even its most familiar parts are sure to reveal hidden 'monsters'. Local nature reserves and some gardens open to the public organise 'family fieldtrips' with information packs, where you're sure to catch the bug!


Week 31 - 28th July 2004

Q: My garden looks great in the daytime, but when I invite friends over for the evening, it all too quickly it disappears into darkness. How can I use my garden more effectively?

A: Entertaining family and friends in the garden can be a memorable way of spending a warm summers evening. However, weather aside, the one BIG drawback at this time of year can be the fast fading
light – even though the evening may be warm and inviting. At the flick of a switch your entertainments can be illuminated with attractive low-voltage lighting. When cleverly positioned, outdoor lighting will bring a whole new dimension to your garden. It may seem a cliché, but your familiar ‘back yard’ can be literally transformed with an imaginatively designed lighting display, turning it into a welcoming ‘exterior room’. Spotlighting feature plants, statues, pots, pools and pergolas, while relegating unsightly, neglected areas to darkness, can easily create stunning effects. Lighting also makes your garden more accessible to visitors, increasing home security and personal safety. Standard, mains voltage lighting systems should always be installed by a qualified electrician, but are practical for permanent security and large areas, where floodlighting is required. For the average driveway, garden path or patio, low-cost, low voltage lighting is an easy to install option. A complete DIY novice should have no trouble in installing a simple low-voltage lighting circuit safely. Deck mounts and soil spikes allow the display to be ‘tweaked’ or moved as the need arises, maintaining full flexibility. Uplighting, downlighting and spotlighting are the three most basic forms of garden lighting. By using a combination of all three, a dynamic effect can be easily created.
To be Continued next week....

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Week 32 - 28th July 2004
....Continued from last week

Use one or two uplighters beneath elegant grasses, feature plants or shrubs to ‘wash’ a white light up through the foliage and highlight stems. Downlighters, in the form of postlights or markers will illuminate a pathway, drive or deck safely, allowing easy foot passage. Space at regular intervals for an unbroken path of light. Spotlight garden feature, such as statues, birdbaths, urns and obelisks, with two lights each, grazing the beam across the surface to minimise deep shadow. Maintain some areas of complete darkness in select corners of the garden to act in dramatic contrast to illuminated areas – brightly lit features will appear more dazzling when set against pitch black. Don’t forget ‘task’ areas, where food preparation and cooking will take place. Directional spotlights set beneath a parasol will illuminate work and eating
areas safely. Plan your lighting display in advance – count up the different types of lights required and calculate the total wattage needed – buy the correct transformer and cabling for an impressive display. (Long distances will require a thicker cable to reduce voltage drop.) Allow for ‘flexibility’ – play around with your display, discovering new and unusual ways of illuminating your garden. An ‘ordinary’ green tree or large shrub can appear magical once lit from beneath by two or more spotlights, directed into its branches. Coloured bulbs can add a dramatic theatrical atmosphere to the simplest display. Red, green and blue bulbs are readily available – simply replace the existing clear bulb supplied with the feature light, using the colour of your choice. Use timers to turn your display ON and OFF as required. A programmable timer is also a security asset during holiday times when the house may be empty. Bury low voltage cabling beneath a gravel or bark mulch for a neat finish. Remember to plan your lighting display to accommodate the changing seasons – stunning autumn foliage and bare winter stems can look spectacular when visible at night. Similarly, a mid-winter snowfall can be fully appreciated when subtly illuminated by sparkling white lights.

Week 33 - 4th & 11th August 2004

Q: My summer container bedding display was sensational for the first couple of weeks after planting, but has now faded - with yellowing leaves and small flowers. What can I do to 'perk them up' again?

A: To get the best out of your beds, borders, patio tubs and containers, don't forget to top up the nutrient levels regularly in your soil and compost.

Frequent watering and vigorous summer growth quickly leaves soil and compost hungry and malnourished. Weak, lank growth, poor flowering and yellowing foliage are all familiar signs of a 'hungry plant'. By replenishing the nutrients in your container potting compost and garden soil, you can guarantee continual, impressive results throughout the summer months - just like the professionals.

Now for the science…
The nutrients required by plants are composted of mineral ions, which are absorbed when in solution - (dissolved in a liquid) through plant roots. Trace elements are as equally important, even though they may only be required in very small quantities.

To ensure healthy, uninterrupted plant growth it is essential that plant nutrients are always available - along with adequate soil moisture (water) - to guarantee a continual 'show' of colour.

The majority of plants under average growing conditions, require only nitrogen - for vigorous leafy growth, phosphorus (phosphates) - promoting strong roots, and potassium (potash) - for flower and fruit production, to be regularly added.

The commonest signs of 'plant hunger' are reduced or disappointing growth (nitrogen deficiency) and leaf discolouration (a lack of potassium). In addition to these familiar problems, growers of 'acid-loving' plants in hard water areas may experience yellowing and burning of foliage on Ericaceous plants, usually due to a lack of iron/manganese trace elements.

The good news is that 'malnutrition' in plants is easy to rectify, with visible results within a matter of days or weeks.

What you will need…
Deciding on the quantity and type of fertiliser can be complex - but understanding how each type works will enable you to make the best choice for your plants.

Soluble feeds
Soluble feeds are fast acting and easy to administer - ideal as a 'pick-me-up' or 'quick fix' for flagging summer bedding. Buying in dry 'powder' form and mixing to requirements allows accurate dosage and economy of use. Feed as a matter of routine to hanging baskets, patio tubs containers throughout the summer months for a non-stop display of flowers, right into autumn.

Use a watering can for small quantities or a garden hose with dilutor for larger areas, such as flowerbeds and lawns.

Slow-release fertilisers
Ideal for the 'time-poor' among us - easy to handle and quick to use - slow-release fertilisers may be applied just once or twice a season for months for healthy growth. Designed to 'slowly-release' their fertiliser contents in a variety of ways, either by swelling and bursting open, or degrading over time through varying thicknesses of pelleted 'shells' - manufacturers have taken the time out of feeding container-grown plants and specimen shrubs. Perfect for pot-grown shrubs and trees, long-term container inhabitants or patio summer bedding displays.

Concentrated fertilisers
Tried and tested favourites such as Blood, Fish and Bone have long been used when planting trees and shrubs, or for improving the vegetable garden. Easy to handle and consistent in nutrients, concentrated fertilisers require soil organisms to break them down into a manageable form, for plants to easily absorb - so are not ideal for use during cold weather or when quick result are required.

Whichever fertiliser you decide to use - remember to continue watering all container plant regularly. Plants rely on soil moisture to 'mobilise' the feed within the soil, 'absorb' it through their roots and 'transport' it throughout their system. Follow manufactures instructions to the letter, as an 'overdose', far from improving results, may cause permanent damage or even sudden plant death.

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Week 35 - 18th & 25th August 2004

Q: I would like to add 'instant' height to my rather flat garden, but don't want to rely solely
on plants. Can you suggest a permanent 'structure' that would also make an attractive
garden feature?

A: Architectural 'features', such as pergolas, arches, arbours and gazebos have long
been the doyens of good garden design. Made popular by the ancient Egyptians as
favoured shady 'covered walkways', sporting fruitful vines and offering much needed
shelter from the searing summer heat. Re-created ever since, overhead beams supported
by pillars - either used singularly as an arch, or linked to form a pergola or arbour -
have become essential elements in today's popular garden designs.

By spanning paths, framing features, forming entrances and providing 'enclosure',
pergolas and arches can successfully sub-divide a space in two -linking disconnected
areas and creating a 'focal point' in their own right.

'Rustic' wooden structures work well in informal cottage gardens and 'naturalistic'
settings, where sympathetic unspoilt materials are essential. 'Rusty' iron and 'reclaimed'
materials may also work equally well, if links are established with their surroundings.
Choose a design and size in harmony with your space - allowing for rampant climbers
to encroach and the surrounding planting to mature.

Elegant 'modern' chrome or stainless-steel pieces suit a contemporary setting
accompanied by restrained planting. Golden Hop - Humulus lupulus 'Aureus', Yew -
Taxus baccata and Wisteria all work exceptionally well as part of both modern and
classical designs, associating happily with stone columns, brickwork and concrete,
enhancing the formal 'look' and sense of permanence.

In contrast, tumbling roses, perfumed jasmine and exuberant honeysuckle harmonise
perfectly with pole and rope designs - a favourite backdrop to the traditional rose garden.
Use to form a welcome 'break' between garden and lawn, path and driveway or 'formal'
and 'informal' areas, such as a neighbouring wildflower meadow.

'Living structures' of Willow, Yew, Hornbeam, Laburnum and Box cross the boundaries
of every design style - happily marrying relaxed 'country garden' with manicured formality.
Initially rely on a permanent framework of supporting metal poles and hoops to form
the structure, trimming and training growth as it appears. When stems meet at the top,
intertwine to create a covered arch or 'roof' to your shady arbour.

Rose-covered arches are quintessential English cottage garden favourites, a 'must' over
the garden gate, around the front door or straddling two closely positioned flower beds.
Freestanding and independent, they are easy to install and provide an instant 'lift' to a
flat landscape. When linked together, arches become pergolas, creating a long tunnel
of foliage - enclosure - and finally surprise on reaching the far end, as a new view is
revealed. Pergolas are entirely adaptable garden structures, with the potential of slowing
down a visitors foot-fall, creating mystery, linking areas or even providing support for
climbing fruit and vegetables in the allotment.

An arbour is defined as a freestanding shady 'bower' overhead, clothed in climbers and
deliciously English. Differing from gazebos in being less permanent, often flimsy,
lightweight structures easily erected and quickly smothered - arbours are perfect for the
informal garden in high summer when dappled shade and perfume is a must.

Gazebo's are closely akin to follies, but are far from impractical. Providing permanence
with secluded seating, shade, possible storage, whilst essentially remaining a
'room with a view' - they appreciate careful sighting, as more often than not, they can
provide an additional vantage point from which to admire an otherwise familiar landscape.
Situate against a backdrop of mature trees, shrubbery or surrounding perimeter fencing
to provide an arresting focal point from which to appreciate luxuriant planting, dappled
sunlight and a glimpse of the house. Gazebo's can work surprisingly well close to
swimming pools and tennis courts, providing a welcome seating area as well as visually
'breaking up' large expanses of hard landscaping.

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Week 37-38 - 26th & 1st September 2005

Q: Our local garden centre is filling up with bulbs, ready to flower next season. Can you suggest how I can “pep up” my borders in spring and summer, with something a bit different?

A: As a keen gardener, I am sure it hasn’t escaped your notice that Alliums are the latest “must have” garden plants. For weeks, from late spring through summer they send up many, varied “drumstick” heads consisting of hundreds of individual flowers.

Their rise to fame is partly due to the excellent photography seen in the illustrated gardening publications of today. As a bonus, Alliums main flowering season happily coincides with Chelsea and Hampton Court Flower Shows, further publicising their excellent garden-worthy attributes. Alliums are predominantly bulbous plants, with a few rhizomous exceptions. We are all familiar with onions, chives, shallots, garlic and leeks – the vegetable branch of the family – with adventurous gardeners also planting their “Ornamental” cousins, for flower power, without the smell. However, when crushed, the strap-like foliage, often reminiscent of grass, can exude a faintly oniony aroma, which is by no means off-putting, making it easily distinguishable from other plants when weeding. What you may not know is that most Alliums also make excellent cut flowers (if you can bear to spoil your garden display), lasting well in water. Their globular heads can create a sensation in striking floral arrangements, combined with bold foliage and contrasting colours. Now is the perfect time to venture to the garden centre and stock up on these exceptional plants, as the latest deliveries are pouring in.

Top 10 rundown…
A look through this list reveals the large number of varieties sporting a coveted Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society, denoting garden-worthy excellence, a testament to the exceptional attributes of ornamental Alliums. Allium ‘Globemaster’ – Probably the largest Allium, with violet-pink ball-shaped heads, up to an astonishing 10” diameter. Height 85cm / 30”. AGM

Allium cristophii – Huge spherical heads of metallic mauve “stars”, which remain attractive long after they have faded. Eye-catching and easy to grow. Height 60cm / 20”. AGM

Allium schubertii – Making an excellent cut flower, startling heads of shooting stars on individual stems of varying lengths. Also good dried and sprayed gold, as novel Christmas decorations. Height 40cm / 14”.

Allium hollandicum ‘Purple Sensation’ – Stunning when planted en-mass amongst purple leaved sage, grasses or beneath golden laburnum trees. Subtly different mauve to purple toned “drumsticks” rise above surrounding planting. Height 80cm / 32”. AGM

Allium sphaerocephalom – Egg-shaped heads of deep maroon to green buds held aloft on wiry, flexible stems. Bulbs are cheap, so plant in large drifts for a convincing display. Once again, stunning in floral work. Height 60cm / 24”.

Allium siculum (correctly re-named Nectaroscordum siculum) – Umbels of maroon-flushed alabaster bells, upturned once fertilised. A prolific grower and self-seeder once happily planted. Unique colour combination, perfectly marrying with ornamental grasses and drought-tolerant Sedum. Height 90cm / 3’.

Allium azureum – Deep sky blue “balls”, beautiful when grown through silvery Catmint, lemon yellow Helianthemum or Potentilla. A dainty variety, ideal for cutting. Height 60cm / 24”. AGM

Allium flavum – Canary yellow loose umbels of tiny hanging flowers, upturned when fertilised and seed is ripening. A very decorative, easy to grow and useful garden plant. Height 30cm / 12”. AGM

Allium karataviense – Unusually for an onion, this one is grown more for its foliage than its dense, greyish white flower heads. Broad, glaucous, puckered leaves cup opening blooms. Very much a “designer plant”, stunning when well used. Height 20cm / 8”. AGMAllium moly ‘Jeannine’ – Cheery, bright yellow starry flowers top rigid stems. Wonderful combined with late spring bedding; For-get-me-nots, Violas, Wallflowers or Campanula. Height 30cm / 12”.

In addition to this list are many “rarer” varieties, not so commonly seen, but well worth searching out. Place direct orders or contact specialist nurseries for extensive bulb listings.